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YOUR warm flexible suit has been 60 years in the making and it all started with Mr Jack O'Neill and a PVC vest.
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FOR one glorious day the drought broke, La Grav pumped as did every sand bank up and down the Frech coast.
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PETER Mel wins the Billabong Pico Alto 2011 Copa Burn in 40ft surf, taking down Big Wave World Tour Rd2.
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NOT so long ago wipeouts like this were considered impossible to survive, James McKean at Shipstern.
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As I was driving down to the area the anticipation was building, you could see all the points were firing as a macking great swell lit up the coast. Upon arriving I peered over the cliffs at about 9am, about an hour before low tide, and I was really disappointed not to find anyone surfing. Aileens was pumping and not a soul to be seen.
A goat path you said ... Where?© 2009 - Marco Cavalleri Normally people come over on the ski from Doolin, so I looked that way, but nobody was on their way. However, just as I was leaving, Fergal Smith, Tom Lowe and one unknown surfer appeared. Not below in the water having got a ride over on a ski, but grinning from ear-to-ear fully togged-up at the top on the cliff. Everyone knows about the goat trail down the cliff, but I dare anyone to try and clamber the 700ft/200m metres down - clutching a board - in windy conditions after a rainstorm... It's insane, I wouldn't do it with a rope.
This article has been given an average rating of 3.61 from 812 votes.
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