It’s been the warmer-water escape for the wave-starved English surfer for decades. Sick of waking up to another week of onshore wind and little swell, small crews of surfers from all over Europe have been flocking to Les Landes and Gironde for decades, hoping for low pressure in the Atlantic to create the sand-bottom barrels the region has become famous for. The deepwater trench that jacks up the power, the classic culture and beautiful women, the aroma-heavy pine forests and miles and miles of sand " all help produce the ideal European departure. With Hossegor and Biarritz just the start of a coastline that still hides miles of quiet waves; most surfers consider a tour of south-west France a must.
A number of spots stand out; pictures from countless surfing magazine features and a well-publicised ASP tour stop reinforce the ideal. La Graviere, the consistent sandbar in the heart of town, draws a top-level crowd of tube-seekers. Le Penon, Seignosse, Capbreton and Anglet, Lafitenia and Guethary " all classic spots that will bring memories racing for almost every seasoned European surfer. When it’s really on, the French beachbreak is an awesome spectacle.
The early travellers had it good. Tracks through the pine forest led to countless uncharted beachbreak peaks, with the option of tenting or sleeping under the stars right by the breaks, sharing the waves with visitors from all over the world. In those days, the now-deceased La Barre was the focus. Now, all eyes are firmly on the sandbars in and to the north of Hossegor. Another focal point, Lacanau, is surrounded by similar quality peaks. The waves remain the same as they did in the early days, still pouring across the Bay of Biscay, gathering power and lining themselves up to be greeted by dense-packed sandbanks, funnelling the swell into all manner of lineups: thick shorebreak, mechanical tube-sections, empty cloudbreaks up and down the coast, south-west France has it all.
For the visitor who isn’t into the municipal camping grounds, or the increasingly scarce free-camping spots, all manner of holiday accommodation is situated within walking distance of the beach. The light is stunning, particularly during the early mornings and the late afternoon glass-off sessions. The water, although often disturbed by the pulse of the waves, is clearer and a more vibrant blue than locals to Cornwall are used to. For many Australian and South African surfers, it’s a home away from home, albeit with a totally different culture and feel.
The culture is both beautiful and dangerous. The night life can be awesome, and when the circus is in town it seems there is an extra charge in the air. A little French can go a long way. Many, many surfers load up on cheap red or rose, forget themselves in the bars and clubs of Hossegor, and miss the early morning glass that is a feature of the area. Stumbling over the dunes in the pre-dawn light, with ruler-edged lines stretching into infinity, light morning mist burning off the peaks; it’s a unique experience.
Enjoying an international reputation, the Hossegor area in particular draws an international-level crowd. When the pro tour hits town, the standard in the water goes from very good to mind-blowing. French surfing is also hitting incredible heights, the region an epic training ground for numerous competitive surfers. Visiting Australians, South Africans, Americans, Brazilians, not to mention the pick of European surfers, descend in August and September. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself sharing the lineup with ex and current world champions, and the pick of underground rippers. The waves themselves can be humbling, as many ex-pats find what they have always searched for on these shores.
The area around Biarritz and St. Jean de Luz provides breaks in the straight line of the cote d’argent. Here, surfers can sometimes find shelter from the Atlantic storms that turn Hossegor into a seething mass of whitewater. Of course, if the wind is in the right direction and the swell large enough, the elusive jewel at Mundaka could be doing it and many surfers race across the Spanish border to try their luck. Be warned though, Mundaka looks after itself, with a super-thick and jealously guarded first section, an intimidating paddle out, and warp-speed sections that mow down the unwary. Further into Spain, all kinds of vibrant towns and villages perch above a massive variety of waves, which include the famous beaches around Suances and the infamous Rodiles. Full-tilt Spanish fiestas, with old and young people gathered into all-night shindigs that seem to go on forever, are something that shouldn’t be missed.
France is a massive country, with a truly diverse set of cultures and waves ��" from the reefs in South Brittany to the beach breaks at Hossegor, there really is something for everyone. The standard rules of the road apply: don’t bring a crowd, be polite and respectful, and keep within your limits. For those who adhere to this simple etiquette the rewards can be massive. All up and down the French coast there are numerous lesser-surfed waves, hollow beachbreak and reefs waiting to be chanced upon. Many people have said it before but it is worth repeating - a French summer blending into autumn is a true rite of passage for all surfers.
There’s no better way to experience France than on a self-drive holiday. Not only is it much more relaxing on board a ferry than a plane, but you have the added convenience of taking your own car, the flexibility to take as many boards as you like (without being charged for the pleasure!), and you don’t need to worry about them getting damaged either! Simply load up with all you need to enjoy your trip, and then go get some waves.
Start planning your trip now with Brittany Ferries. Their routes from Portsmouth, Poole & Plymouth will take you far closer to the action, saving you hundreds of miles of unnecessary driving. That means less time on the road, and more in the water. And with prices from just £70 each way for a car and 2 passengers, a road trip to France can be great value too. Or if you prefer you can even sail from Plymouth to Santander, and arrive within easy reach of Northern Spain’s wide variety of breaks, and just a few hours drive from the beaches of SW France.
For more information, visit brittanyferries.com/surf
Photo Credits: Greg Martin findyourwave.com
Submitted By
Ryan - Magicseaweed.com on the 28th August 2007.
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