WITH a huge west swell on the forecast and all eyes on the Padang Padang contest in Bali, it wasn't not a bad time to be located in the Mentawai islands.
It's been a good year for regular-footers in the Ments with countless south swells and north winds creating endless righthand barrels at Rifles (see pt 2 coming soon).
But being a goofy-foot living in the Playgrounds region basically means I live for the rare day at Kandui Left. Aug 4th, 2010 was one of those days.
This, the last wave of the day, left me standing cut-up on dry reef sans fins ... check the boil...
big ups to those dudes, you can see they outside there comfort zone but had to just go. that one wave with the goofy surfer where it was sucking almost dry on like three sections with the throthy wave, my sac good work!
The dude in blue boardies, 1:00 and 1:30, that's the one of the most extreme skills-to-balls ratios I've ever seen, that is, very very little skill, hell of a lot of balls!
"very very little skill" ??? guy made it down the face, into the slot, and held his line. in those conditions, on your backside, that is no mean feat. no matter how gutsy, w/o the skills, you're gonna be reef meat real fast. big backside barrels = probably one of the most challenging things in surfing.
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Ed Magicseaweed
splissm632 days ago
