ON any given day the Mentawai can have the most perfect surf on Earth. After spending the last couple seasons out here I thought I had pretty much seen it all in regard to perfection.
My girlfriend, Christine Garcia and I (writes Justis St John) started FTR Films on the premise of documenting everyday surfers' dream trips and capturing the beauty of the Mentawai. Stationed at the Kandui Resort by Antidote Travel for 8 months of every year, we have seen hundreds of swells come and go.
...But as I walked down from my Indonesian uma at 5am on July 3rd (following a decent session the previous evening) and a wave washed over the dunes and past the resort restaurant to my feet, cause arrived to reconsider my 'seen it all before' attitude. Here's the tale of the mad month of July.
'Tis sickening sight, this ethereal beauty, these blue-green barrels of bliss, this utopia, this paradise...their's.
Sooo, i'm off to score me a some ankle high, choppy, brown, east-coast onshore wind swell; wahoo.
Evening Rifles-The XX-Intro
Large Rifles-Years Around The Sun-The Empyrean Trail
Rifles Early Morning-Working for a Nuclear Free City-The Tape
Rifles Perfect-Years Around The Sun-Roundabout
Cheers
Was sarcastic dude, kind of talking to myself here... Morocco is in the same hemi as yours, where were you during geo classes mate :) ? Surf has been small & shitty with non stop west wind here since early june, depressing when you know nothing will really happen until october...
Yea well I know that man :)
BUT: I dont have waves at all! When Im travellin to some places I always am endangered of still not gettin waves there; just like you. The difference is that I kindof cannot choose when to stay :) Last time I went to Spain for 10days: 1day of surf haha!
U have at least certainty that something WILL happen some day. Pity me haha
BUT! My certainty remains that, still, some day the swell will just be on my side
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Ed Magicseaweed
gemini645 days ago
