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YOUR warm flexible suit has been 60 years in the making and it all started with Mr Jack O'Neill and a PVC vest.
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FOR one glorious day the drought broke, La Grav pumped as did every sand bank up and down the Frech coast.
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JOHN John's road to victory at the Billabong Rio Pro, he defeated Joel Parkinson in a one sided final.
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JOHN John Florence wins Billabong Rio Pro whilst runner-up Joel Parkinson takes rating lead
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[PT-What it takes]
Under the lens ... Kelly Slater © 2009 - CAZENAVE11/Quiksilver Pro Last year you were dominant and this year first Parko and now Fanning have been. How does that type of roll come about - is it training, or a mental approach? Well you can train all you want, but that won’t help you if you aren’t in the right frame of mind. I mean you can be in the right frame of mind and not even train and still win, so it just shows that the mind is more important than the physical side... well that’s my experience anyway. I know that year before when Mick won he trained super-hard and was really focused so you think so it was all down to the training. But there are guys that train really hard and maybe their surfing is not up to scratch. For me, personally, sometimes that training side of things can take away from just letting it happen naturally. I mean you have to healthy, and be able to paddle (laughs), but the mental side has for me personally a great deal more impact.And what about the long term goals. There’s not really a model of retirement or career path for a 9 times world champion, so how do you think you’ll find life after competition? Well in terms of a career path I really do see what I’m doing now as my career and then after that I’ll just be travelling and catching good waves. If that’s a career, well, so be it. You know a couple of my friends have got it wired. I mean Shane Dorian has got it wired, he spends two months in Tavarua, and spends a lot of time at home and does a few trips a year getting great waves, so for me there’s nothing better than catching great waves. A friend of mine sent me a photo from Central America a couple of days ago and I wanted to get on a plane and fly down there right away so that’s still the driver for me.Do you think you look forward to a more settled life?Well I am home right now. About five or six years ago I had a real problem with that, with travelling so much and not really having a home, or a base. But then I was told by someone close to me that home is where you 'are'. It’s where your heart is and it doesn't matter if you have a house around you or not. I always have plenty of friends around and am familiar with the places I’m in. Also love going to new places. You know my friends just like to go out and drink beer and don’t do a whole lot, so I know if I was living at home hanging with my friends I’d be thinking, jeez I want to be somewhere else surfing or travelling. So you know, there’s no complaints, I have a good life.Interview conducted by Ben Mondy of ACM Writing on behalf of Magicseaweed.
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