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Famous big-wave reef infamous for nasty localism and thick, world-class righthanders. One of the few bona fide Southern California big-wave spots. Needs big W-NW swells and any tide. Perfect shape and very powerful with strong currents to match. A horseshoe-shaped bay. Starts at 6ft (2m) and never closes out. Rocky and unfriendly.
The locals can (and probably will) make you feel most unwelcome. Fights and fractured bones are commonplace, as are arrests and lawsuits in recent years. Not a recommended surf spot for outsiders. Access is via a dirt parking lot and steep trail off Paseo del Mar.
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77%
72%
5%
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80%
75%
5%
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74%
65%
9%
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71%
62%
9%
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71%
61%
10%
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66%
57%
9%
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42%
36%
6%
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37%
36%
1%
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45%
42%
3%
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43%
41%
2%
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57%
53%
4%
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75%
71%
4%
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Jan
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Feb
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Mar
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Apr
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May
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Jun
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Jul
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Aug
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Sep
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Oct
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Nov
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Dec
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This graph shows the percentage of days that had a ridable wind swell (7 seconds period or more) or groundswell (10 seconds period or more) of over 3ft. It also shows the dominant wind direction. Not all of these days will neccessarily give great surf, and very short lived wind swells or longer period secondary swells may produce surf not recorded, but it gives a clear idea of the seasonal trend and a rough guide to the chances of scoring something ridable.
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