It was Sept 2005 just four months after the earthquake that lifted the whole island out of the water by over a metre, leaving the reef dry even at high tide. I'd been there a few weeks until finally just before I was due to leave this epic swell came. This morning was perfect. I hired a fisherman to take me out in a dugout canoe so I could shoot from the channel. Phil Goodrich the surfer was and is probably still is the best surfer at Lagundri. Another good surfer, a Spaniard with a Mentawai charter boat told me he actually had priority for that wave. However he decided the wave looked a bit scary and he called Phil into it. It turned out to be the wave of the session. There were plenty of other big perfect waves but this one seemed to have something special. Plenty of people were saying afterwards after seeing the photo, that's a cover shot, and of course they turned out to be right with it appearing on two covers and several spreads and selling as a poster.
It actually doesn't get any better than this really..........all you need now is a tribe of sexy bit*hes to feed you grapes after you session!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thats well kool im a beginer and need tips because im thinking of buying my first surfboard and i am overwhelmed at the choices and prices so if anyone would like to help can you send me a message cheers
number 1 does it for me, Blue/Green/ brightness, rainbow forming from the spray of the wave, nice colourful scenic ppicture... beautiful wave... nice ride...! Awesome shit man
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