This was taken at Insides Grupok on Lombok last summer - one of the best days surfing I can remember. We had been in since first light with the swell growing all morning. As the sun rose the light got better and better until it hit this magic angle: lighting the wave perfectly. Having just snapped my Firewire on the set before this one and had swum back to the boat where my girlfriend Clare had the camera and her board as a reserve. I decided to shoot a few shots when this set rolled through catching most people inside but breaking absolutely perfectly. Our little boat almost got rolled by the set as we were anchored too close but we made it and I quickly jumped back in with Clare's board for a few more. Just one of those perfectly sized days, smooth as silk and loads of fun.
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NYsurfer13958 days ago
