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YOUR warm flexible suit has been 60 years in the making and it all started with Mr Jack O'Neill and a PVC vest.
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FOR one glorious day the drought broke, La Grav pumped as did every sand bank up and down the Frech coast.
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JOHN John's road to victory at the Billabong Rio Pro, he defeated Joel Parkinson in a one sided final.
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The view from the captain's cabin as Euroforce descend on the Mentawai.
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[PT-Waimea Bay] This is Waimea Bay, Nov 27, 1959. We considered this day crowded, 12 guys out. Size was between 15 and 25ft. It was the last wave of a set and the conditions were getting stormy. So we all decided to go while we could. It was getting bigger and bigger with outside sets coming through and we all wanted to get in before Waimea started closing out.
As I get older I realize young guys today have little understanding of what big wave surfing was once like. In 1959 Waimea was not surfed that much. No leashes, no life guards, no jet skis, helicopters, and very few cameras. We depended on buddy system. If one of us got into trouble, others would help. All of us were excellent water men. We were a fraternity of big wave riding brothers. Each was a professional in work life, and riding big waves was our thing - our hobby. Of course, we loved it, the rush, with all our hearts. Slightly insane then, since we were on our own. No jet ski life guards as back up, no ESPN, just us and the sea and its giant waves. The surfers left to right: Max Lim, Ted Gugelyk (me), Jose Angel, Jack Webb and Peter Cole.
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James C1032 days ago
