Spencer on his first wave of the day. He had been slow getting in due to feeling a little unwell. The previous night we had perhaps had a jar more than was sensible and Spencer more than most of us. It was a Saturday and barrelling on every wave without a soul out. The massive cliffs at this beach are deceptive, making the waves seem smaller than they actually were. This picture has painful memories.
Dude in #5 looks like he's about to bury his nose in 3 feet of sand. I've had a similar experience with a break over a sandbar. I was afraid my board was gonna be snapped in half so I kicked it away and took the punishment. Needless to say, the taste of sand stayed with me for a week.
ah, love it, so much bluer than wat we surf, the beach break near to us is straight on shingle... OUCH lol, i kno how the poundin feels, so that is some serious break
Some of these made me laugh, and some made me wince...a lot.
I like this one too, for lots of reasons:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/gallery/2009/feb/27/clark-little-photograph-waves?picture=343885004
Definitely would not want to be that guy, looks like a broken back is in the near future in this photo. . . wouldn't it be cool to hear from the person that is in the photo?
#14 The Cribbar on form. You can tell it's gonna hurt and with wipeouts like that at the peak you get that awful sort of lull as you fall down the face, hit the trough and wait just a moment for the wave to collapse on you.
For pic 6: Jayden is a legend... We would be stand-up surfing the reef just to the left of this, pissing ourselves laughing at the spongers - buts its all good fun...
What is so weird about this shot is that you cannot see any of the guy's skin (because of the wetsuit of cause) and just black. He looks like a ninja gone clumsy. Excellent shot!!!
i guess this is where we post comments for all of them so i wanted to start specifying bout every picture BUT 16 TOOK IT ALL so i thing that the one on 16 it the only wipe out that didn't happened to me i am 27 and surfing since i was 12 broke my shoulder in the water but still this guy has to be praying
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