There are four distinct breaks at Makaha: the Point, the Bowl, the Blowhole and the Inside Reef. Rideable at any size, these epic rights become a serious challenge over 10ft (3m). Below that size there is something for everyone with inside rollers picked over by the groms, a nice left off the middle peak for the goofys, long wrapping walls for the charging longboarders and short sharp barrels for the shredders. Out on the point in a solid NW it’s a committed, heart-stopping drop, then full-bore race ahead of or under the axing lip towards the Bowl which may just turn into a cement-mixer close-out. With some luck it can link and reform all the way to shore, but watch out for backwash. Higher tides are preferred and getting caught inside over the reef can be a shallow, skin-threatening experience. Intermediates on small swells, experts with extra testosterone on the dig days.
Visiting haoles (whites) need to be very respectful of the tight-knit Hawaiian families that live and play in Makaha. Featuring canoe, tandem, stand-up, bodysurfing and longboards over 10 feet, it brings together the entire community. 4th December of 1969, Greg Noll, took off on a 30ft (10m) Makaha monster, considered the largest swell in recorded history.