More than Mundaka

Mid-late Autumn in Northern Spain

A relaxing overnight cruise from Plymouth brings the traveller to Santander, Northern Spain, a region almost as steeped in surf lore as Hossegor to the north. Northern Spain remains more mysterious, not simply miles of golden beach but more an undulating series of bays and inlets, exposed promontories and arcs of sand. There is a noticeable change in culture and dynamic from across the border in SW France, and although cities such as Bilbao and Donostia San Sebastian are as cosmopolitan as they come, a further shifting down of the pace of life is noticeable in the countryside and villages. That is, until the waves come up or a fiesta kicks off.

For the surfer, this region is truly challenging and diverse, handling anything the Atlantic can cast its way. From world-class big-wave spots that would terrify the average European traveller, through to pristine beaches, and fickle pointbreaks" Northern Spain has it all. Then there is that place. The fabled left that draws visitors from around the world to race the sand-bottom tubes and freight-train walls that spin into the estuary mouth. The village remains almost unchanged, despite the frequent gringo visitors since the late 1970s and the annual ASP world tour event.

Mundaka is one of those hallowed places, a holy grail at the end of a long road for most surfers, dreamed about and revered. The entire surfing world sat up and took note when dredging altered the estuary flow and the sandbar moved into the middle of the river and lost its shape a few years ago. The tour didn’t stop there that year, and many surfers around the world wondered whether Mundaka was really gone. Thankfully, although she didn’t show her best form at the Billabong Pro this year, the jewel of Spanish surfing is back.

Mundaka devotees reckon on mid-Autumn as the best time of year. In theory, a long, still summer has allowed the sandbank at the mouth of the river Guernika to develop. When the first powerhouse swells of the autumn march in, the rivermouth converts them into thick-lipped funnels that spin down the bar for hundreds of metres. There are no shortage of takers, and the number of locals (not to mention a fair few expats) who have the heavy first section wired increases every year. Expect world-class tuberiders if Mundaka is on.

The wave that has made the region internationally famous is just the starting point. There is much more than Mundaka. Across the country, local crews charge all manner of waves ��" some of which are amongst the heaviest in Europe. Menakoz, for instance, will keep all but the most hardcore on the beach with blood-curdling clean-up sets, rocks like teeth, and serious power. Menakoz and the other world-class big-wave spots dotted around the region have experienced regulars who will not suffer fools gladly. Be sure of your credentials before paddling out at any of these places, and tread lightly. Again, as ever, be humble and give respect, and it should come back to you.

The Basque country, Euskal Herria, is different from its neighbours in almost every way. The Basque people are proud of their unique heritage and culture, and they will always be the true locals, both on land and in the water. Beyond Euskadi lies Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia, all distinct regions with their own cultural flavour, people, and waves. Hundreds of coves and headlands produce a massive variety of waves, suitable for the beginner to the expert. Whether you need the convenience and access of urban surf-breaks, or want to get out and explore, there is a massive amount to be discovered. Further jewels in the Spanish crown include Rodiles, a beautiful mini-Mundaka deep in the Asturian countryside. Northern Spain also offers the quiet rivermouths of Galicia, working back through Asturian beaches beneath the Picos De Europa and their ancient forests, and the endless isolated breaks of Cantabria, where perfect waves break unridden in some of the cleanest water in Europe.

Arming yourself with a little Spanish (or Euskara in El Pais Vasco) can go a long way in meeting people and becoming accepted in the water. Having a few phrases in place can spare a lot of embarrassment, and may lead you into either the best waves of your life, or at least the best party. The regions differ enormously in geography, geology and culture. Regardless of where you are, however, a night in Spain can easily carry on into the next day. A fiesta sees every local turn out - men, women, grandparents, children, to celebrate life. And in Northern Spain, there always seems to be plenty to celebrate.

There’s no better way to experience northern Spain than on a self-drive holiday. Not only is it much more relaxing on board a ferry than a plane, but you have the added convenience of taking your own car, the flexibility to take as many boards as you like (without being charged for the pleasure!), and you don’t need to worry about them getting damaged either! Simply load up with all you need to enjoy your trip, and then go get some waves.

Start planning your trip now with Brittany Ferries. Their service from Plymouth to Santander is the fastest ferry crossing from the UK to Spain. You can board their luxury flagship Pont-Aven in the afternoon, then simply relax and enjoy a few drinks in the bar and an evening meal, before having a good night’s sleep and arriving in Spain the following morning. Or if you fancy getting some waves in France on the way down, why not take one of their services to Caen, Cherbourg, St Malo or Roscoff and stop off at La Torche, Lacanau, Hossegor, or wherever else is firing along the way? Whatever option you do choose, you can be sure of an experience you’ll never forget.

For latest prices and availability, visit Brittany Ferries