[PT-Where's my motivation?]
WHY do you surf? For most of us it certainly isn't the glory or for the sponsors. It's simply because you love it. Jordy Smith's latest board short advert doesn't get you into a crusty wetsuit at 6am. For the same reason we here in the MSW office love these Raglan roster tails silhouetted against the setting sun. Feel the great leveller - bombing down the line and busting-out your tail. Surf photog
Dan Carter had been confined to dry land for the final three weeks of his New Zealand Odyssey by consistent onshores. Packing his gear carefully (he had the time) he prepared to leave...
When I opened it up the computer I almost fell from my chair ... I thought it was too dark© 2009 - Dan Carter There is only one thing worse than no waves, writes Dan Carter, great waves and you can't surf. The story goes like this: it had been onshore for three weeks up until May 21st, 2009. So two nights before I left I had my grand drunken exit - obviously needing a straight head for working out all that airport stuff. Turns out the last day fired but I was fried. In the morning I had packed all my shit, very well I might add, so I couldn't surf. It was one of those things, to me it was a sense of accomplishment, there was no undoing that. Did I mention the hangover as well? Instead I dug out the camera and tripod and got some shots. Turned out ok after all.