On the 24th there were only a few out like Greg Long, Jamie Sterling, Noel Roberson and of course our favourite local big wave charger Will Dillon. Said Lonnie Caruthers of RPMSurfer. This was right up there with other swell Mexpipe events and like most epic days it was only huge for too short a time. Most local surfers headed off on the 25th to their special secret spots as it was just too big for most of them, even La Punta was out of control. Leaving only the ones who seem to thrive on this crazy stuff.
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Is it just me, but what's the point of paddle surfing? The board is more unwieldy than a longboard, plus the hassle of a paddle to deal with. If you want something that big in the water, put an outboard on it.
I swam out that day. Absolutely Epic waves, the biggest I've ever seen. The wedge is incredibly powerful and breaks relatively shallow too. Plus the current was ripping right into the rocks. Dangerous stuff!
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kernowbysvyken1015 days ago
