The swell in the bay was junky and setty with a funny wind. However as we rounded the Bluff at Shipstern everything fell into place. The winds dropped right out, the swell was cleaned up, and the sun's radiant rays started to flow our way.
Dirty black beasts soon morphed into wild things of beauty, beaming wild blue and green. All the Tassie boys were charging, from Jim Hollmer to Brook Philiips and Benny Richo. Mainland surfers Ryan Hippo, Karl Atkins and Richie Vass made the journey down, amped and ready for the challenge. Nomadic Pom, James Hick, got one of the craziest waves ever seen out here.
was watching the highlights of shippies last week of this latest big swell on the news (yeah, I know, Aussie news)and it came to my attention when one wipes out at shippies, one doesnt just wipe out, one does these amazing cartwheels through the air inside the tube at high speed. The water actually moves very fast for a big wave. As opposed to say some Oahu where the big waves peel in a very predictable picture perfect fashion, shit just happens at shippies e.g. the floor drops out like a fricken trapdoor and your left somewhere in the air half way down the face only to have a big chunk of ocean(some call it a lip) smash you in the side of your head. then the spectacular cartwheels. if you havent seen last weeks wipeouts, you've gotto on you tube or wherever
Shipsterns get lots publicity but it's not nearly as perfect as the big waves of Irelend (see surfers journal- Greg Long and Twiggy, plus some locals) and its not nearly as good as about 15 of the outer reefs off of North Shore Oahu.... It's just easy to photograph. Dont get me wrong, its a heavy heavy wave, and cannot be toyed with. But the outer reefs of Hawaii cannot be fotographed due to 25ft sets breaking everywhere. The channels can close out at any time...Definitly no boats.
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