The swell, directly from the SW @ 24 foot, combined with a 15 second swell period made for some of the thickest waves ever ridden out here. Between 2 and 4pm the swell died off due to the low tide. Hope was restored on the push and we scored the traditional arvo pulse.
Mike Brennan in a serious spot of thick ol' bother.
was watching the highlights of shippies last week of this latest big swell on the news (yeah, I know, Aussie news)and it came to my attention when one wipes out at shippies, one doesnt just wipe out, one does these amazing cartwheels through the air inside the tube at high speed. The water actually moves very fast for a big wave. As opposed to say some Oahu where the big waves peel in a very predictable picture perfect fashion, shit just happens at shippies e.g. the floor drops out like a fricken trapdoor and your left somewhere in the air half way down the face only to have a big chunk of ocean(some call it a lip) smash you in the side of your head. then the spectacular cartwheels. if you havent seen last weeks wipeouts, you've gotto on you tube or wherever
Shipsterns get lots publicity but it's not nearly as perfect as the big waves of Irelend (see surfers journal- Greg Long and Twiggy, plus some locals) and its not nearly as good as about 15 of the outer reefs off of North Shore Oahu.... It's just easy to photograph. Dont get me wrong, its a heavy heavy wave, and cannot be toyed with. But the outer reefs of Hawaii cannot be fotographed due to 25ft sets breaking everywhere. The channels can close out at any time...Definitly no boats.
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Thiago Jacaré938 days ago
