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Classic north swell under strong trades at Sunset Beach.© 2014 Sean Davey
Outriggers doing their evening ritual at Haleiwa.© 2014 Sean Davey
Rainbow Palms. A colour spectrum over Pipeline.© 2014 Sean Davey
The beaches have been noticeably devoid of the usual crowds that you see at this time of the year.© 2014 Sean Davey
Kaena Point sunset© 2014 Sean Davey
Surf swimmers at the Waimea Shorebreak.© 2014 Sean Davey
View of Sunset Beach from inside the car.© 2014 Sean Davey
Evan Gieselman getting freaky at Rockies.© 2014 Sean Davey
Flooding between Turtle Bay and the North Shore.© 2014 Sean Davey
Looks like this guy has decided mid-wave that he'd prefer to bodysurf instead.© 2014 Sean Davey
Ezra Sitt showing off his new sponsors for all to see.© 2014 Sean Davey
Carissa Moore at Rocky Point.© 2014 Sean Davey
Dane Reynolds aerial at Rockys.© 2014 Sean Davey
In this sequence Dane Reynolds proves that floaters have a place on the progressive surfers repertoire. Shot 1 of 16.© 2014 Sean Davey
Michael Ho still driving hard after all these years.© 2014 Sean Davey
Pancho Sullivan getting vertical in the evening backlight.© 2014 Sean Davey
Jason Frederico boosting at Rockies.© 2014 Sean Davey
A surfboard waiting for its owner to reach the beach.© 2014 Sean Davey
Unidentified, ally-oop at Rockies.© 2014 Sean Davey
Local surfer "Cheeseburger" going big in the Rocky's rip bowl.© 2014 Sean Davey
A fresh instalment from veteran North Shore surf photographer Sean Davey. This week’s themes include sparse lineups, severe flooding and Black Friday barrels.
Well, we had enormous day at the Pipe, fittingly on Black Friday. For those of you not familiar with this term, it’s the day after Thanksgiving when all the shops offer massive discounts on their mercy, to get people to come in. The swell dropped back the next day but did hang in the medium range, so that they could at least get the Sunset contest finished. Only negative was that the clouds got darker and darker to the point of where it just poured torrentially for the whole final day of the event. It still hasn’t come good yet. The thick cloud layer persists.
Something that has become very noticeable this year is the general lack of surfers and photographers from out of town. Seems like the surf cos are keeping their surfers here just for the events and sending them on their way. Photographer numbers have crashed. Sean Davey
Surf is currently in the 2-4 foot range. Seems to vary quite a bit without the tides at the moment. Something that has become very noticeable this year is the general lack of surfers and photographers from out of town. Seems like the surf companies are keeping their surfers here just for the events, then sending them on their way. Photographer numbers have crashed. Typically in the past, you’d seen a few dozen familiar pro photogs from all over the world. This year, I’ve counted just a couple so far. I have noticed more low key shooters with smaller lenses, but very, very few pro shooters this year.
The rain that came down on the Sunset finals day flooded out swathes of the North Shore. Waimea Valley backed up with so much water that the river ran off the beach, creating head high waves that were ripped apart by surfers like Jamie O’Brien, who always seems to be on it when the river wave happens. The road between Turtle Bay and the North Shore was flooded over at times too. Probably the last time it rained this much was back in 2006, when it rained for 40 days and nights, ‘cept this time, it all came down in just a couple of days.
The coming days look packed full of swell, and with the Pipe Masters fast approaching, things are set to heat up.
Words and photos, Sean Davey
Drone footage of body surfers at the Wedge, Newport Beach, California
Tracking the development of the Bertha storm system as it approaches the US East Coast
Guillermo Cobo flying high at home in the Canaries