Too much of anything can be bad and today Bali had a surplus of waves and wind. The much anticipated swell made surfers at Padang wait all day before finally delivering. Tomorrow? Well that is another, potentially, perfect story...
"Believe me it was a real shit today at Uluwatu. Too much wind." Relayed our dejected man on the ground. Every surfer has been there, you see a huge swell and get all excited, feverishly refreshing the charts. The day of reckoning arrives, and up you get at the crack of dawn, and rush down to your local with your trousers still tucked into your pants, only to discover a thumping closeout reminiscent of that rubbish 50 year storm in Pointbreak.
The morning on the Bukit was unfortunately a bit of washout, big waves, but lacking in form. Spots like Padang really love a fresh south easterly breeze to make them fizz, and the morning southerly flow instead made everything a little wonky.
Fortunately, the midday high tide offered enough water for second bite of the cherry barrel. From 3pm, a slight rotation in the wind at Padang Padang meant tubes began to break on the hallowed reef and offered a promise of more to come tomorrow.
We asked for anecdotes from this swell and Wave Guru Bali Surf Camp passed on this text from Wayno:
"Man I got smashed so fucken massive. [sic] One wave was so big, I ain't ever seen a wave a Serangan break so far out and double-suck so hard. Because I was out way further than anyone else, picking off the biggest ones, it landed just in front of me as I could not paddle out fast enough. Just one wave, it was at least 12ft, solid, and a big thick heavy lip from hell. I swam down as deep as I could and watched it come at me, and smash, it fucked me, then another, not so big one, and then another on the friggin' head, have not felt so alive like that in a while, yeeeeeeeew stoked, still alive, but that was a bit scary. Coming surfing in the morning bro?"
Since as the the swell is meant to hang around at a similar size tomorrow, that is certainly some invitation.
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