I would prefer to keep the exact location secret but my photographer friend Shepo and I recently visited a relatively unknown island in the South Pacific, and we wanted to do something a bit different than our normal surf/image/story paradigm.
We wanted to show what happens beneath the waves while we surfers are so busy obsessing only about what is happening on the surface. We also wanted to make the photographer part of the story. Typically all you see is pictures or video of athletes, but never shots that show you how the shots were created. So we decided to take the viewer Behind the Seen by making the photographer part of the story. We enlisted the help of visiting surfer and aspiring filmmaker Francesco Campello (from Italy), and this is what resulted – our first attempt at a video edit.
It may be too late for the ASP Big Wave World Tour, but Dungeons lit up.
Conor Maguire harks towards a time when the cold and dark wraps back in and the lows deepen, spinning thick ropes of swell towards Ireland.
Italy has waves and Sardinia has some of the best spots, places you would not believe. Leonardo Fioravanti knows that better than most...
From the Caribbean to Nova Scotia (and maybe even Europe) the forecast is for a medium sized swell to grace your local beach.
Like a lot of the waves in the edit, this one is a grower. Dusty Payne and Yadin Nicol make light work of things you'd sail on by.
Highlight of the day was the 17-year-old brother of local legend Manoa. He blew everyone away.