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This tortuous coastline with many nooks and crannies was bound to offer a myriad of waves on all conditions. The simple fact that Irish skin is most definitely designed for the northern latitudes has always geared surfing expeditions to colder rather than warmer climates.
Scouring Google Earth, researching existing knowledge on Magicseaweed and consulting with surf explorers who had been and gone proved captivating. It was clear there would be a multitude of options on any given swell and wind direction due to peninsulas with 180 degrees of opportunity. Flights were booked, bags were packed and excitement was rife!© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
A trusty vehicle is a must have on a surf trip around this barren land. Best bang for your buck was found with an interestingly named company Sad Cars. There was nothing melancholy about the little vehicle that stood solid for the trip. So the first port of call, literally, entailed making it to the first major harbor along the coast. This is where the camping idea became laughable. With the high wind speeds constantly ripping through a landscape with little shelter or trees, nestling in between sands dunes was the best option. This resulted in a new form of skin exfoliation therapy for any exposed body parts. Waking up next to a spectacular sunrise along this incredible coast was indeed worth the hard work grappling with camping equipment. Perseverance was key as camping was indeed the sole accommodation for this trip bar one spectacular night in the Blue Lagoon Hotel.© 2014 Eoin McCarthy Deering
Seeing surf for the first time on a trip is always exciting, even more so when there is no one else around. There is a good chance you may have the waves to yourself, as there are only twenty resident surfers in the whole of Iceland. Frothing would be an understatement, seeing three-foot waves racing down a point with two main sections was a dream start. Even though excitement was rife, nature will occasionally slow down the pace.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
As the proverb ‘the less haste the more speed’ rang true of the frozen seaweed strewn boulders lining this point, which served as a severe impediment for easily or swiftly entering of exiting the water. Not only were the waves super fun with hollow sections, speed runs and perfect lip lines; the backdrop was nothing short of captivating.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
In between sets, if one’s mind was not fixated by icebreaker fishing ships being chased by seagull flocks then the expanse of snow-covered mountain ranges could definitely make the mind wander.© 2014 Eoin McCarthy Deering
Wonderment was also found in the rectangular shape of the Icelandic lighthouses. The majority of lighthouses in Ireland and indeed around the world are cylindrical, reasoning for which I have yet to find the answer?© 2014 Eoin McCarthy Deering
There is huge potential for every wave I set my eyes on in this awesome country. I could foresee how a bigger swell and better direction would indeed make this a wave to fantasize about. Floaters, pockets snaps and coverups were abundant on this average sized day, with the simple variation of sections being the most enticing part of all.© 2014 Eoin McCarthy Deering
The surfers here were well rounded and many had logged a substantial amount of surf travel miles to exotic locals. They were enthusiastic about sharing their passion and getting their brethren out in the water and up on a board. I have a feeling there may be a fair few more Icelandic surfers around on my next visit, if my hopeful wish for a return trip comes through.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
A little further exploration happened us upon a slab wave that would also enable an introduction to some of Iceland’s home surfers. If there ever was the epitome of hard-core surfers, then this Iceland crew is just that.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
With no surf shop in the country, these surfers are highly resourceful. Using everything from diving suits to windsurf boards and far-flung purchases on Internet land to get them in amongst the phenomenal natural resource on their doorstep. Thanks to their well-spoken English, communication was not a problem. Yet little words were needed as their surfing standard spoke for itself.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
The surfers here are meticulously well prepared and rightly so. Getting stuck out on the coast is a real possibility with the mental off-road driving conditions, flash blizzards and never-ending ice.© 2014 Eoin McCarthy Deering
The second surf of the day had just that, a flash blizzard out in the line-up, a crazy experience entailing snow flying sideways and disappearing into the wave face as one raced down the line. This spot would feature again in the trip due to the hollow nature to the waves here. Great waves were had by all in the lineup with oncoming sections to smash, gouges to hack and mini-kegs to sneak underneath. If anyone ever makes a surf trip to this incredible country, then watch out for the Big Blue Bus crew (you know who you are) and give them a friendly hello plus the respect they deserve.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
Surf exploration is awesome, most of all when the currency, food and culture differ greatly. Iceland is one of these places. Caught between the influences of Europe and the United States of America, there is a fabulous blend of cultures here. This molds the unique architecture, fashion, music and food found in this region. For instance, it is wild to see a gothic style church followed by a Taco Bell building then a traditional Icelandic red roofed house, all on one stretch of road. Clearly there is a lot more to explore in Iceland other than waves.© 2014 Eoin McCarthy Deering
The trip was filled with many incredible sights and experiences including Gullfoss waterfall, Geysers, Reykjavík, Svartifoss waterfall, Vatnajökull Glacier, Jökulsárlón, Vík and many more jaw dropping views along the way. A great way to warm up post-surf session is to avail of the local geothermal pools found in most towns. The most famous hot spring of all is indeed the world-renowned Blue Lagoon which is a must do if only for the feeling of floating in a lunar landscape.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
There are many fun beach breaks to be found in the sheltered coves and wide bays along the winding coastal roads. These spots proved to be ideal camping grounds during the night.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
The most surreal campsite and beach break was to be found at the mouth of the glacial lagoon. Here morning light brings brilliant concoctions of blues to icebergs littering this still estuary.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
Oversized ice cubes then drift out to sea and along the beach, like a scattering of oversized diamonds in the sand.© 2014 Eoin McCarthy Deering
Couple that with pristine rights and lefts along this stretch of beach and you easily recognize one of the most mind-blowing surf set-ups in the world. Equally as jaw dropping is another beach break along the coast where a-frames crank under huge sea cliffs overlooking the town’s classic red and white Icelandic church. Both surf spots are nothing short of exquisite.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
So long you are a little warm blooded it was hard to not be filled with joy at sights like this.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
The bone numbing cold experienced while surfing in these far flung northern reaches of human habitation is something of an experience in itself. Donning a frozen wetsuits left in a car boot was always lingering in the back of the mind when checking any spot. Then comes the initial shock of entering the water, followed by a buzz from adrenaline kicking in, which eventually enables one to paddle furiously during a session, helpful to maintain warmth if nothing else. Changing in blizzards with club hands and feet is something one may wish to block from the mind. Yet when it comes down to it all, the waves are uncrowned unless you count the seals, the landscape is captivating beyond belief, the set-ups can be as long or as hollow as you wish and there is definitely no pollution.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
The last surf highlighted the flip sides while surfing in this remote country. Returning to the initial slab wave, it was found to be solidly overhead with gale force offshores. Two young surfers from Reykjavík were psyching and straight out there. Little did any of us predict what this wave had in store for us all. To give a comparison, similarities to a Riley’s like right-hander come to mind.© 2014 Laura O'Byrne
The waves were bombing and breaking over shin deep jagged volcanic reef. The first major set took the two young locals out of the equation. One snapped leash with the board last seen heading skyward towards the horizon and another board split in half, leaving a lot of room for pondering the consequences of surfing in Iceland. Lone surfing is a reality on this island. Back up is not. Ice covered roads, heavy snow, flash blizzards, extremely remote locations make time and distance to medical attention a real issue. These thoughts do little for one’s confidence when staring down the face of a draining overhead wave.
Taking off deeper in the gusting offshore wind was something of a mission. Scoring views from hollow kegs spurs one on. Finally it all caught up; taking off on a solid set wave, tiptoeing to the bottom, skipping out into the flats, crushing lip impact, slamming into the reef, knee first into rock, excruciating pain, gasping for air, floating, checking, praying. Thankfully walking or more accurately limping away from this Icelandic surf adventure was a true blessing. Iceland must have wanted to leave something permanent to remember it by, a fingertip sized kneecap divot. As if there weren’t enough awesome memories from this trip to last a lifetime!
A pin sharp glance through the Hurley Pro as we (roughly) approach the mid point.
It may be too late for the ASP Big Wave World Tour, but Dungeons lit up.
Conor Maguire harks towards a time when the cold and dark wraps back in and the lows deepen, spinning thick ropes of swell towards Ireland.
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