“IT’s nuts to paddle out without safety Jet Skis…” Chunky and potentially pant-dropping Chilean insanity.
“According to the Armada de Chile, Thursday marked the biggest swell to hit northern Chile in over 30 years. With roads and houses being washed away and harbours closing out, the military higher-ups made the decision to close the coast to watercraft—and that included surfers. It was Chile’s version of a Code Red swell, and came accompanied by threats of hefty tickets for nadador extrema (extreme swimming) — hefty being in the range of five grams of gold.”
you can read the rest of Matt Rott’s account HERE.
*For posterity it was Matt taking the tumble on the big day.
Like a lot of the waves in the edit, this one is a grower. Dusty Payne and Yadin Nicol make light work of things you'd sail on by.
Highlight of the day was the 17-year-old brother of local legend Manoa. He blew everyone away.
We break down the reasons why Edouard might be the most interesting storm of the season so far.
Next week we have great looking numbers for Trestles, the Wedge and elsewhere in Southern California.
Big old Tasmanian tubes and Marti Paradisis in the land of empty slabs.