THIS time was different. We did a lot of surfing and caught some nice waves in Mentawai - happy days.
Lances Left was by far the most consistent spot and we also got a good session in a secret spot near HTs. The trash in the video really wasn’t too much of a problem, I think mainly because it’s not that densely populated and they just burn it! I haven’t gone to Bali for three years or so now, too much polution, crowds and scumbags.
Kepa finds himself in a land of perpetual dancing and broad smiles.
Pick a solid swell, make the treacherous paddle, avoid the fang-like rocks on the inside, and you could score some of the longest rights of your life.
If Jack Kerouac surfed he would have chewed his beatnik leg off to get on this trip. Desert Point to Shipstern and everything in between.
Not all winter is cold, even if the country is in danger of washing away there will be surfers lapping up the storms
Those two imposters, triumph and disaster, go hand in hand in the sport of bodyboarding, especially for those hellmen who push the boundaries of what is surfable.