TUES, January 3rd, clean, 15-20ft and from the west. The opening day at Mavericks is number one of a trifecta of swells, the second and largest forecast for Thursday and Friday, before a third low rolls in next week. Crowds aside it was a perfect session to get your feet acclimatised to the wax.
Frank Quirarte, coined it "utility swell" a perfectly serviceable opening day at the the infamous West Coast break with plenty of 20ft swell in the water. It also served a second utilitarian and functional processs, sweeping away the flotsam of froth which had accumulated over the summer and fancied a crack at this most unforgiving of spots.
"It was the most dangerous I've seen it." Said Frank, a man with 20 years experience out there running water support. "Almost 50 guys out there, a lot of new faces who've spent summer imagining their first Mavericks swell and found reality tougher than they'd ever anticipated. This is the clean broom which clears the ground for first really big session on Thursday. We hook them out of the impact zone and they won't be back."
© Frank Quirarte