I WRITE this squashed in the front of my van, in the passenger seat beside Gary McCall as Cotty drives us home.
We are surrounded by clutter and a general accumulation of empty petrol station food packaging. In the back of the van under six guns, three tow boards, a rescue sled, a box of spares and umpteen stinking wetsuits are Jamie Russell and Conn Osborne. We have pretty much been living like this for the past two weeks chasing endless swells all over Ireland.
I've been surfing for 22 years and January and February generally mean bitter cold, stormy unruly seas with the odd giant storm which gives us rideable big waves. This last month however has seen a series of unbelievable back-to-back swells and we've surfed the uber-fickle Prowlers several times.
This last session was by far the most rewarding.
© Gary McCall/potatobread.co.uk