SURFING big waves is a hazardous activity where experience and correct practice can limit but certainly not eradicate risk.
A fact tragically underlined by the death of Sion Milosky at Mavericks, riding waves from this same NPAC storm but more than 2000 miles away. Right now it would be churlish to glorify the risk-taking of this Peahi (Jaws) session when ultimately the line between success and tragedy is exposed with such raw fragility.
It's easy within the profusion of media images to think that somehow by due of exposure and increased participation, big wave hunting as a sport has become less dangerous. This is not the case, PWCs, spare air and life jackets can only go so far, out there you're operating in a world of imperfect information pitting yourself against the savage vagaries of Mother Nature.
This a session dedicated to all those who charge whilst the rest of us watch from the sidelines.
© Mike Neal