Stealing a moment away from his larger role in his family's life on Kauai, Bruce Irons found himself in a world of his own in the barrel at Backdoor today; so much so that he had no idea that his only real score - a nine - was the best wave ridden in his heat.
"You know, Pipe is different from everywhere else...It's like, where time stands still. If you could bottle that up and give it to someone who doesn't know anything about surfing, that feeling, you'd be a millionaire! All my thoughts, everything is out the window and it's pure joy, excitement, euphoria. It's a real nice feeling. It's very peaceful.
"You drop in, you're concentrating, and then you get in the barrel and you're mesmerized, and then....none of this even exists and then as you come out of the barrel, reality sets back in. You can hear the commentator, wooahh! And you're like.....back to the real world. I just wanna go back inside. I don't know, it's a trip.
"I haven't really surfed a contest (lately) and it felt good. The reality I came out to was I lost. But it's only a contest and I don't really do them anymore."
At this point, Bruce was informed that he had actually advanced. "No, I don't think I did....I got a 9 and a zero, maybe a 1. Really?! I thought I lost! I was just staying out there blowing off steam!"
© Carey T/Volcom