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The morning revealed a pretty intense west swell, which was dishing up 2nd reefers with regular consistency. Here's a set to send a shiver up your vertebrae.© 2014 Sean Davey
The solid west swell saw Pipe errupt in all its splendour. Sunny Garcia navigates a moving mountain.© 2014 Sean Davey
Garcia being chased by an avalanche on said mountain.© 2014 Sean Davey
The regular 2nd reefers were so west that they were pretty much mushing out. Meanwhile those smaller ones just seemed to focus right onto the 1st reef, delivering up a feast to those who could read the conditions.© 2014 Sean Davey
Mason Ho was having a good time, even catching a couple of big Backdoor beasts. This kid is bringing style back to pro surfing like no other. I think it's the influence of his Dad (Michael Ho) and uncle Derek Ho.© 2014 Sean Davey
John John Florence was a standout, as has become the norm. Frame 1 of 5.© 2014 Sean Davey
2 of 5.© 2014 Sean Davey
3 of 5.© 2014 Sean Davey
4 of 5.© 2014 Sean Davey
5 of 5.© 2014 Sean Davey
When the spectators leave, the local fauna moves back in.© 2014 Sean Davey
Jamie O'Brien riding Greg Noll's Elephant gun, as shaped by his son, Jed Noll.© 2014 Sean Davey
J.O.B putting decades of rail design to the test and finds it up to the job.© 2014 Sean Davey
Standing in one spot throughout the day, you witness all the meetings, beatings and pre-surf preparation. This 2nd reef roll-in set doesn't present the most welcoming of paddles for someone without a floatation device.© 2014 Sean Davey
This heaving barrel isn't too friendly either.© 2014 Sean Davey
Hula hooping is a much safer hobby.© 2014 Sean Davey
No matter how hectic and competitive the lineup is, there's always time for cordiality on the sand.© 2014 Sean Davey
All hail the might Banzai© 2014 Sean Davey
JOB's altercation with Recado Dos Santos left him without a wildcard at the Pipe Masters. Solid Pipe kegs such as this should quell the frustration. Frame 1 of 7.© 2014 Sean Davey
2 of 7.© 2014 Sean Davey
3 of 7.© 2014 Sean Davey
4 of 7.© 2014 Sean Davey
5 of 7.© 2014 Sean Davey
6 of 7.© 2014 Sean Davey
7 of 7.© 2014 Sean Davey
John John's in there somewhere.© 2014 Sean Davey
Safely qualified for the 2014 World Tour, CJ Hobgood has nothing to do but get barrelled.© 2014 Sean Davey
CJ© 2014 Sean Davey
Makua Rothman© 2014 Sean Davey
Tail dips are out, nose dips are in on the North Shore. You heard it here first.© 2014 Sean Davey
Mason Ho is so en voge right now. Because he surfs like a man who is free.© 2014 Sean Davey
Nate Fletcher letting his surfing do the talking on another expressive stick.© 2014 Sean Davey
Expressions of stoke. Kala Alexander and Mason Ho.© 2014 Sean Davey
The shooting gallery were out in force.© 2014 Sean Davey
Eyes on the prize...© 2014 Sean Davey
A moment frozen in time, what happened next?© 2014 Sean Davey
Friday for John John was a marathon surf, interspersed with banana breaks and the occasional moment of reflection.© 2014 Sean Davey
The split, Pipe or Backdoor? Not a choice everyone will get to make.© 2014 Sean Davey
This was never going to end well, but better to ride it out than hang back wait to the lip to take you. Frame 1 of 4.© 2014 Sean Davey
2 of 4.© 2014 Sean Davey
3 of 4.© 2014 Sean Davey
4 of 4.© 2014 Sean Davey
Another sequence of pain. 1 of 6.© 2014 Sean Davey
2 of 6.© 2014 Sean Davey
3 of 6.© 2014 Sean Davey
4 of 6.© 2014 Sean Davey
5 of 6.© 2014 Sean Davey
6 of 6.© 2014 Sean Davey
A rare attempt at Backdoor.© 2014 Sean Davey
When he's not riding murky 70 footers in Portugal, Garret McNamara is happy to dabble in perfect Pipe.© 2014 Sean Davey
More from the North Shore next week.© 2014 Sean Davey
The true Pipeline showed its face last Friday, prompted into action by a rare west swell. Veteran North Shore photographer, Sean Davey, stood transfixed on the sand throughout the the day, providing your weekly quota of mind-blowing Pipe action.
Words and photos by Sean Davey.
The hype has been pretty intense this week with all manner of claims of a monster west swell or two in the works. The previous day they were forecasting 18-30 feet on the news, but with no talk of a potential Eddie. We were left wondering which surf scale to use. It’s strange like that, people will use regular California style measurements all year round, then as soon as it get’s big they float back and forth between the Californian and the local scales. It’s very confusing sometimes.
Friday morning’s twilight revealed a pretty intense west swell, which was dishing up 2nd reefers with regular consistency. So consistent, that for most of the day it was the in-between waves that were looking the best on Pipe’s famed first reef. The regular 2nd reefers were so west that they were pretty much mushing out. Meanwhile those smaller ones just seemed to focus right onto the 1st reef, delivering up a feast to those who could read the conditions.
It was pretty apparent that a few Pipe regulars were having difficulty positioning themselves, simply because it’s been so long since we had a true west swell.Sean Davey
It was pretty apparent that a few Pipe regulars were having difficulty positioning themselves, simply because it’s been so long since we had a true west swell. They’ve been quite rare these past couple of years. More crew than ever were having a go at the second reef, but it just wasn’t delivering except for those big mushy walls.
Jon Jon and Jamie were both pretty dominant which is totally normal. Mason Ho too was having a good time, even catching a couple of big Backdoor beasts. This kid is bringing style back to pro surfing like no other. I think it’s the influence of his dad (Michael Ho) and uncle Derek Ho.
CJ Hobgood caught a couple of decent beasts along with Reef McIntosh and Sunny Garcia who attacked one 2nd reef monster just Like Tommy Carroll would have. It was great power surfing to see.
There’s the promise of more over the next few days, so stay tuned for more Hawaiian goodness.
*Why did this swell forecast cause so much confusion?
We say: Much of the confusion with this storm seems to be the result of misinterpreted swell model data. The westerly swell direction put the North Shore directly in the shadow of Kauai, and different forecasts were producing radically different results, depending on the resolution of their forecast models. Where our 4 mile resolution data was seeing the shadow (and in fact over estimating it – under calling the peak of the swell 7ft@19 vs 9ft@19 on the buoy) models at a coarser resolution were showing 14ft@18 for Waimea – a true reading not far from shore but underestimating the Kauai shadow by about 30%.
Ferg Brings us some fun looking Rileys in episode 13 of his on-going series Growing
Full Screen it, grab a brew, stick your headphones on and put your feet up
Join the 11-time World Champ for a mind-blowing heli tour above the Teahupoo reef. Just don't expect him to share too many secrets this time