6 of 30
This is what we mean, Will Dillion surfing this overgrown lump of juice like he's tucking into a two-footer. "This was a really big swell. To be and with the grace of God, he created a perfect day for me." Said Will "The brilliance of one is of the many, and we try here every day. On this day it all came together perfectly. How lucky. Probably the luck of the Irish..." N.B Will's father is Scottish/Irish.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Not be be out-done, Coco Nogales on the peak. Coco arrived here as a kid determined to surf and has never left. "This swell was the best swell of the year so far, bigger than the one we had before and a little bit cleaner. But there were still some dangerous moments; the current was very powerful and it was very hard to get into the wave. The swell had a lot of energy and the waves were really square, but still, I had long sessions and I got some very good waves." "Its always special here, every time we get a swell it's very exciting. You are putting yourself on the line but I'm just happy to surf these big waves with a lot of guys from all over the world. It's good to have high level surfers with you on the lineup." "I've surfed for 24 years here in Puerto, since I was 12, and you always learning here. I've been getting big waves all my life but I have big respect for this wave, it's gnarly! One of the best big waves in the world for me, you never know what you going to get out here."© 2014 Noam Eshel
Oahu's Kohl Christensen is one guy always seemingly bouncing between Hawaii and North and South America, so it's surprising to discover he'd never charged Puerto in anger before. "He was surfing like he was here forever." Said Coco.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Kohl also brought a willingness to share his heavy water experience. "He let me borrow his board and I caught my best wave of the swell." Said Coco "To tell the truth, through the first days of the swell it was good on my board but on the second day (Thursday), the swell it was so gnarly I didn't have a big enough board. I was riding an 8'4, and people were riding 9'4 - 9'6. It was also too thin, just not the right board, and later at that day he told me I could borrow his board. On Friday I ended up getting probably the best barrel of the day, it's a sick board." Having the right board here it makes the difference. I ride Jeff 'Doc' Lausch boards and want to work on some future shapes for big wave boards with him.© 2014 Noam Eshel
"Puerto is a paradise man, Puerto is insane. The best place, and everybody is welcome here, bring your good vibes, have fun, and get some good waves." Enthuses Coco. "It's not only about the waves here, we also have good beer and hot girls… Mexican style."© 2014 Noam Eshel
"There weren't a lot of wipeouts on the first day of the swell." Said Noam "This one pictured was for sure the most horrible of the day. Maybe the level of surfers was ultra high, or perhaps the steep peaky drops gave pause for a seconds thought if they knew it wasn't on."© 2014 Noam Eshel
It might have been big but there were a lot of takers early doors.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Alvaro Malpartida on a throaty left.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Jensen Hassett makes the impossible all the time. "He dug his rail on the drop but somehow managed to get out of it." Said Noam ", You could hear the roar at the beach when he almost fell, which, in a fraction of a second changed to "ahhhhhwwwoooooo" of relief."© 2014 Noam Eshel
Nate Florence, brother of JJ Florence shares the same casual approach to hectic situations as his brother.© 2014 Noam Eshel
The wind story at Puerto is generally reliable, following the classic convection routine of calm/offshore conditions in the morning with the land warming and creating on onshore breeze by midday. The evening can follow the opposite routine and create a golden hour or two before dusk. On Wednesday the wind failed to perform this trick which was right at the peak of the swell. The upshot was a lot of bummed surfers seeking solace in cold ones, hoping, chatting and speculating on what was to come the following day.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Gabriel Villaran getting spat out of a beef cake.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Ricky Whitlock, elevator drop to hoping you can set a rail.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Will Dillon has a serious set hanging between his legs.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Eye to eye.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Another peak rolls through untamed.© 2014 Noam Eshel
One reason why the lifeguards need the elevation...© 2014 Noam Eshel
The ferocity of that wave hitting the sand has to be experienced.© 2014 Noam Eshel
A good reason to not get caught on the paddle out.© 2014 Noam Eshel
An other potentially perfect moment.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Doing a reasonable impression of Mavericks for Spencer Pirdy.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Ale Moreda, from Puerto Rico tees up a monster.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Empty Mexican thunder.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Looking down towards the harbour, probably best to leave the boat there today.© 2014 Noam Eshel
A final evening gasp.© 2014 Noam Eshel
A good illustration of how weird it can get out there.© 2014 Noam Eshel
No takers? It's pitch black in there.© 2014 Noam Eshel
They call it Mexpipe and it's easy to see why, not a lot of spots can stand up to that oft repeated comparison.© 2014 Noam Eshel
Three months of non stop storms ended abruptly in Les Landes on Thursday.
Skeleton Bay providing the implausibly long tunnels for which it is known.
Meet Lydia 14 ft 6 inches (4.4 metres) of great white shark weighing approximately 2000 lbs and the first white shark to be documented at the the Atlantic Ridge.
A team of 15 young UK surfers have been selected to surf the ISA Junior Championships at Salinas, Ecuador.
Paddling the Slave at Mullaghmore, breaking egos and avoiding the vortex.