AROUND about head-high Puerto Escondido is a punchy A-frame beachbreak, some waves close-out and others hold open. At the south end lies La Punta, a warm-hearted mellow left popular with kids and older longboarding types.
Then a big south swell hits and something outrageous occurs. Puerto's Mr Hyde emerges: a savage, ferocious, untamable, infinitely beautiful and unknowable thing. Incredibly it's done this twice in the past two weeks. Banzai!
"We'd seen the forecast a week out and we knew what was coming" Said photog Noam Eshel "We hoped for two days of huge perfect waves and Wednesday dawned a beautiful clear morning, clean conditions but super-crowded in the water. The standout surfer (on both days) was Will Dillon, defiantly a giant killer. He took the biggest waves, demonstrating nothing but coolness and flow."
Coco Nogales is another name you'll always see dicing it out when the waves head past comfortable. "Both swells were good, very challenging." He said "Theese swells came with a lot of water, the first one was thicker, but not as big as this one. At some points it got really heavy."
"This swell was nice because it was clean on the first day and I got better waves. It was very special for me, but then every swell is special here, it's always challenging. I'm from Puerto and I have a lot of respect for this wave. You have to be in the right spot at the right time, but you also need luck."
© Noam Eshel