Stormriding Madagascar

© 2013 ~Dan Haylock~

The West Coast

The Mozambique Channel has a bit of a reputation for unpredictable seas and forms a 1000km long corridor that ranges from 1000km wide down to a 460km squeeze at Tambohorano, Madagascar. Here the coastline is gouged by large estuarine rivermouths connected by straight sandy beaches and the migrating bars pile up some impressive looking left set-ups. Of course muddy rivermouths in the Mozambique Channel are the last place surfers are looking, given the perceived shark threat. There are also long left points on the SW-facing coast opposite the tiny specks of near shore islands that also could be worth a scout around in the boat you would need to scope this coast. The crazy sand deltas continue down the west coast past Morondava, Belo sur Mer and onto the coastal town of Morombe, which has air links with the capital. From here down to the Toliara province the Vezo Reefs offer the best surf potential as the offshore shoals catch swell and the inside lagoon is a perfect kiteboarding nursery. © 2013

Vezo Reefs

This stretch has a swell window facing directly into the SW swells with mainly offshore conditions. Thanks to the harbour at Tulear, the 700km (438mi) of varied coral reef has become accessible by charter boat. Only 22km (14mi) north of Tulears' sand and mangroves, Ifaty boasts several hotels and a couple of reef pass breaks (Behakio and La Gauche). 1h boat ride south from Tulear is Sarodrano, where 2kms offshore are TT's and Chefs. A 2h boat ride from Tulear is Anakao, home of the Vezo, migratory fishermen relying on traditional dugouts. This region of the island consists of two barrier reefs, two coral banks, three lagoon reefs and a fringing reef. The islands of Nosy Ve (marine and land sanctuary) and Nosy Satrana are 30mins away, by motorised dug-out. Featured in the surf film Chocolate Barrels, Flame Balls is the most technically demanding wave around. © 2013 ~Dan Haylock~

Stormrider Hotspot

Flame Balls

Heaviest wave in the Vezo Reefs area of Madagascar, sucking in the Mozambique Channel juice and spitting it onto a barrier island reef. Needs plenty of size, afternoon SE winds and high tides to work, so it is fairly unreliable. It can cover some impressive distance on a good day with plenty of barrelling sections linked by speed carve walls. It's a semi-heavy wave, not for beginners and is a 10min ride by motorized dugout from Anakao. © 2013 ~Dan Haylock~

Vezo Reefs Forecasting

Low pressure systems moving east, away from South Africa, will shoot predominantly S-SW swell up and along the Mozambique Channel. SW-facing reefs will receive up to 12ft (4m) surf, but most of the quality surf will have to wrap around the NW-facing reefs so SE trades can blow fully offshore. From April to September, expect regular, 12-14sec period swells producing 4-12ft (1.2-4m). If swell is consistent, the main worry is the fierce SE to S trade winds, which usually blow 10-20mph for most of the time, interspersed by a few NW to NE days. Early winter has the lightest winds. Unlike the rest of Madagascar, the tide factor rises in the Mozambique Channel and can reach 6ft (2m) on spring tides, which is enough to bring the live coral close to the surface and cause slow navigation at low tide in the lagoon. Lots of breaks prefer high tide, including the hotspot Flame Balls. Download tide tables from the web or ask local fishermen. © 2013 ~Dan Haylock~

Southwest Mada

South of Anakao and the Vezo Region the outer reef offers a few more twists and turns before Itampolo and the swell-blessed desert of Southwest Madagascar. While the airport accessible Fort-Dauphin and Vezo Reefs have appeared in the surf press since the '80s, the stretch of coast in between has long remained a mystery, thanks to the sheer degree of difficulty to get there. The main road RN 10, is no more than a dirt road full of potholes. Furthermore, to get to the coastal villages of Androka, Itampolo or Lavanono requires hitchhiking a lift with the water-tanker or lobster dealer trucks, otherwise there's only the zebu-cow carts and they only go 5km/h. Travel problems aside, there are undoubtedly some quality coral reefs and even a fun beachbreak to be savoured, along with the slow pace of life in this harsh, desert environment. © 2013 ~YEP~

Stormrider Hotspot

Lavanono Lefts

Reminiscent of St-Leu on Réunion Island, the reef starts with long racing walls, usually ruffled by side-shores, before bending into a hollow, dead offshore, end bowl section, offering the odd barrel for tail stomping stall masters! The bowl can be shallow but it's mostly flat, dead coral and covered with kelp. Despite being better at higher tides, on very low tides and small swell, the reef actually holds longish rights, zipping inside the reef if the trades are low. Further inside where the village sits, a reform left breaks, where the village kids take turns on a couple of beat-up boards, while the group sitting on the beach yell a warning whenever a set approaches. © 2013 ~YEP~

Southwest Mada Forecasting

The same swells that hit Réunion island, sweep out of the S-SW off the top edge of the east travelling Roaring Forties lows as they head east for Australia. From April to September, expect regular 4-12ft (1.2-4m) swells on the SW exposed shores, where most breaks average 3-8ft (1-2.5m) waves. Because the prevailing wind is E-SE, most setups experience cross-offshore conditions and is better angled for the lefts. The SE trades can be accelerated by the venturi effect of the coastal mountain range, and sometimes shift onshore as cold front cells approach the coast in winter. Early winter season is best for gentle winds. A varatraza onshore wind spell is a real bummer and usually happens wintertime, while Sept-Oct are considered the windiest months. The tidal range is less than 2ft (0.6m) in the far south, but it becomes significant (6ft/2m) towards the Mozambique Channel, affecting navigation with local dug-outs to Androka or Itampolo reefs. © 2013 ~Google Earth YEP 5114955~

Southeast Mada

Once around Cap Sainte-Marie the coast turns to face more SE and also the brunt of the NE-SE trade winds, ripping into the unprotected reef waves that break a good 100-200m offshore. It's wild in every sense of the word and requires a guide with good local knowledge. Protection begins at Baie de Italie and continues through the Southeast Madagascar zone, where the beachbreak barrels are reliable and the local crew is growing. Fort Dauphin is the regional hub of the far south east, located on a peninsula with the sea on three sides at the bottom of the eastern mountain range. It is a beautiful place to visit as well as being home to a wide range of wave types. © 2013 ~Surfbornnaked.com/Alan van Gysen~

Stormrider Hotspot

Monseigneur Baie

A regional classic reefbreak, offering 150m of fun, workable walls going from super deep at the peak into shallow, flat rocks covered in live coral and urchins. Pumps in the winter from April to July when the S swells hit and if the wind is blowing from the S-SW. It is inconsistent, but rides are long and safe whilst the handful of stoked locals are totally unaware of localism. Perfect for all but the complete novice. © 2013 ~Alan van Gysen~

Southeast Mada Forecasting

Southern Madagascar's coastline receives plenty of SE to SW swell groomed by strong NE winds for most of the year. The best time to visit is when lows in the Roaring Forties send S-SW swells from April to July, resulting in regular 4-12ft (1-4m) waves on exposed shores. Most breaks in and around Fort Dauphin don't face directly into the SW swells, so average wave heights are reduced, but are still around 4-10ft (1-3m) in the winter. The eastern side of the island is however the place to be during the summer benefiting from cyclone swells (without the bad weather) from November to March, which can reach 12-25ft (4-8m) on NE-E facing spots. The NE-SE winds dominate, regularly exceeding 20mph and sometimes shift onshore, as low pressures approach the coast in winter. September to November is considered the windiest time in Fort Dauphin and the tidal range is less than 2ft (0.5m). © 2013 ~Alan van Gysen~

East Coast

The vast bulk of the east coast is featureless, windblown beachbreak, punctured by more rivermouths depositing murky, silt-laden water into unappealing line-ups. After almost 800km (500mi) of nothing Toamasina (aka Tamatave) heralds the start of a lush yet desolate coast, open to cyclonic devastation and occasionally some quality surf. The region's poor infrastructure prevents easy beach access, the SE trade winds can be brutal, and the oceanic real estate is some of the world's sharkiest. Because this NE coast needs an ESE swell angle, consistent or even good surf is never guaranteed. In Toamasina where swimming is banned due to a huge shark population attracted to the abattoir and pollution, there is some good form on the reef off the port, but it is almost always blown-out, and you would be crazy to enter the water. Up the coast there is resort accommodation near the Foulpointe reefs and hazardous beachbreaks, where steep drop-offs, currents, and lots of rocks reside. Mahambo maintains a small local surf population and a few funky, shallow right and left reefbreaks in the vicinity. © 2013 ~Michael Kew~

The Far North

To the north are plenty of nooks and crannies to explore if you have a solid 4WD truck and driver/Malagasy translator. Up there, several points and countless reef passes beckon, and the rest of the coastline up to Diego Suarez, including Baie d'Antongil is absolutely loaded with potential greatness. Wind blown Ile Sainte-Marie is fenced by a massive barrier reef that curves in the south, has a pass in the middle and ends before the northern tip where rocky rights and lefts have been ridden. Of course, access is the problem throughout this region and a sturdy, ocean going boat trip would be the answer. © 2013 ~John Callahan/tropicalpix.com~

Travel Information

Getting There - Visas: A 1 month tourist visa can be obtained upon arrival (free during 2010 or $30). 3 month visas (fee) must be arranged in advance with your local Malagasy Embassy. Antananarivo (Ivato Airport) receives direct international flights from France (Paris, Marseille), South Africa (Johannesbourg), Comoros, Mayotte, Réunion, Mauritius, Kenya (Nairobi), Thailand (Bangkok) and China (Guangzhou). Madagascar is expensive to fly to. Only Air Madagascar or Air France can carry boards (reliable but pricey). The new, cheaper Kenyan Airways route via Nairobi (which connects to London) currently can't take boards in the hold, but this may change (boards can be sent cargo - slow and risky). Occasional direct flights from Réunion to Fort Dauphin on Air Madagascar, who also do the 1.5hr internal flight to Fort Dauphin (Tolagnaro) from Antananarivo ($235 o/w). There can be disruptions to the internal flight schedule so it is wise to check your flight details the day before and be prepared for delays or changes. Getting Around - Think of this as an adventure; give yourself ample time, book early and fly as much as possible as the road system across the South is virtually non-existent. There are plenty of taxis in and around Fort Dauphin but Zebu cow carts are the local, extremely rudimentary, form of transport in rural areas. Taxi-brousses (local buses) travel between towns at about 15km/h (10mph) only departing when packed with people, not to a schedule. It's hard to rent motorised dugouts; most are sailing (SW) or paddle (SE) pirogues (expect to pay $25/d). A 4WD with driver is the best and often the only reliable way of getting around, however they are expensive ($75/d + fuel). Weather - The climate of Madagascar is generally sub-tropical with two seasons: a hot, rainy one from November to April and a cooler, dry one from May to October. Neither the trade winds nor the monsoons reach the southern part of the island, which consequently receives little rain and is, in places, a semi-desert. The dryness is aggravated by a cold offshore current. Annual average rainfall is 390mm (16in). Thunderstorms are common during the rainy season and tropical cyclones are an important climatic feature; the island has already been significantly damaged by their impact. Temps vary between 14-28 © 2013 ~Dan Haylock~