A COUPLE of days ago, says Transworld's Justin Cotes, my brother and I were looking to go for a little shred sesh somewhere around Teahupoo when we ran into our Hawaiian bruddas Danny Fuller, Kamalei Alexander, Mikey Bruneau, Mark Healey and their friend Petero from a nearby island. "Big Pass?" said Kamalei, "F—k that, you guys are coming with us!" With that, we grabbed TransWorld SURF photog Brian Bielmann, threw some trunks in our backpacks, grabbed a board, and drove to the ferry dock in Papeete.
What can you say? Chris gets back to his roots...
On the boat
Driving onto the ferry, I was getting psyched for some rippable waves at one of my favorite spots in the world.
After a 30-minute ride aboard the Aremiti we were there and drove right off the ferry into another island paradise. Twenty minutes later, we'd arrived at the Petero's Haapiti Surf Lodge — right across the road from one of the best waves in French Polynesia.
We loaded up the skiff and ripped the long lefts of the island with just our crew for an hour before anyone even paddled out.
Switching shifts, we high-fived the locals and went to check another un-named spot. Spot X was kinda small so we left it alone and headed back home for some amazing Tahitian food and a few well-deserved Hinano's. And just like when we were in Australia, I slept in the same bed as my sweaty and smelly brother. Oh the joy…
Day two and the swell was still there but a bit wonky from some wind the night before, no matter, we were on it and surfed for a while before it got too crowded.
Easy does it
In case you didn't know, Danny Fuller is quite the photographer and as we slept like babies one night, he took his Hasselblad camera down to the beach and took some irie full moon shots. Maybe we'll try and get them from him.
Burnt from two long sessions under the Tahitian sun, we had a huge feed with Petero and his family and headed back to the ferry "bustling" Tahiti. I say bustling because compared to Tahiti, this island is the sleepiest and most mellow spot on Earth, just what we needed and the best day trip you could ever make.
Haapiti Surf Lodge has everything a surfer needs; a respected local running the joint, kayaks, bikes, really nice bungalows that go for around $90USD per night, and two boats to access the break if you're over the 30-minute paddle. To contact email email@example.com and tell 'em TransWorld SURF sent ya! Chris Cote