I travel for the best part of the year looking for waves to ride, keeping that flame of surf addiction alight.
My last trip was to Indonesia where I was woken in the middle of the night by my first earthquake, it was merely a tremor mind and the bed that I was lying on hardly moved, but I felt it and I was awake in the middle of the night, in a strange dark place, my brain telling me to raise the alarm and save the world but I was rigid with fear and all I could do was lie there and think of what I should be doing.
Eventually I came to my senses and walked down to the water's edge to see if the sea was still there, it was, but that didn't help me go back to sleep.
Traveling the world and surfing is such an eye opener, I learn from watching other people live from day to day, people, culture, waves and long days in the sun. Then just like that I'm home again. Home for me doesn't change and I love that. It's what I know so well, where I grew up, where my best mates live and I know every nook and cranny of the Cornish coast like the back of my hand, home will always be there but for now there is a whole world to see.
© Tim Davies