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The Best Wave of My Life with Kepa Acero

by on Friday 30th May, 2014   48446 Visits   Comments

How do you decide on the these far flung destinations Kepa? Word of mouth or Google Earth?

Depends… I do a lot of Google Earth and then travel to the places, but it doesn’t always work. Last time I went from home (Basque Country) all the way to Guinea by car. I thought about the possibility of getting a world class wave there, and once I was there, after thousands of miles I realised there was a little outside reef in front of the spot, and the place I dreamed about was absolutely flat. But suddenly, you find the option of a good wave on the outside reef, where you never thought about. For now, I guess you have to go and see. It still has that magic. But I don’t know how it is going to be in the near future, with a better version of Google Earth.

That is what it about – a feeling – one which is hard to describe of being there and connected to nature. That’s what surfing is all about.

How would you rate this amongst the waves you have surfed?

There is always the good and the bad. Like the one in Guinea, you find yourself alone with no waves after three months of traveling Africa. And then you find also yourself in session like this one in the clip, these are pretty special moments with epic waves, days that you’ll never forget. Definitely world class waves.

How likely is it being on the internet will result in it becoming overcrowded and spoilt?

I think in these kind of places, and in cold countries like Russia, but particularly African countries it is not so much about the technology now, but more about the situation in every country. I mean, it’s pretty obvious that in places like Mauritania there are some epic waves. But the country is really difficult to travel, so there are a few surfers with a feel for adventure, but not many. Most people would rather stay in safe places like Morocco. As soon as Mauritania or these kind of countries are easier to travel, people are going to head here as well.

Describe your feelings when surfing this wave?

It’s pretty hard to describe the feeling. You are there screaming all the time, you can’t stop dancing and running while you run out to the point, it’s pretty intense.

I was watching last week a new video called The Cradle of Storms, a video with my friend Alex Gray and some other guys, surfing some world class waves in Alaska, in total emptiness – so inspiring. Alex is nearly crying, so stoked and I identified with that feeling. For me that´s what is all about and why surfers travel thousand of miles on an adventure for just one barrel session. That is what it about – a feeling – one which is hard to describe of being there and connected to nature. That’s what surfing is all about.

Kepa Acero

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