The waves at Tofinho are powerful and hollow. When sand fills the bay, it connects right across with section after section to be driven through. Sometimes the waves twist and contort themselves, making for amazing still shot opportunities. You always seem to be looking for the barrell - but the lip takes a beating as it presents itself square after a faded bottom turn!
The ledge is quite intimidating, but it holds the sand a few metres off it, making for exhilarating runs over shallow pieces of ledge - turning the wave inside out and throwing!
The jump off is easy enough on smaller days, but at 6ft and more, is a mission, especially in the East swells.
Winter time is the right time, although you can chase a swell, especially an Easterly one throughout the year. Cyclones are great and taking into account the 14 surf spots in and around Tofo, opportunities are endless. (You would have heard of the superbank at Barra by now, and the ever shifting sandspits).
Just up the road is the longest point break in Africa - www.turtlecovetofo.com can hook you up with the permissions and the vehicles to get you there. We call it Satan’s. Leave it at that.
Nick Tasioulas who runs Turtle Cove has a jet ski and has video of him and his mates on 12ft waves that look cyclones on their sides (respects to Dora). The jet ski has opened up a whole lot more possibilities and the next big swells will have something to challenge them.
Kepa finds himself in a land of perpetual dancing and broad smiles.
Pick a solid swell, make the treacherous paddle, avoid the fang-like rocks on the inside, and you could score some of the longest rights of your life.
If Jack Kerouac surfed he would have chewed his beatnik leg off to get on this trip. Desert Point to Shipstern and everything in between.
Not all winter is cold, even if the country is in danger of washing away there will be surfers lapping up the storms
Those two imposters, triumph and disaster, go hand in hand in the sport of bodyboarding, especially for those hellmen who push the boundaries of what is surfable.