At Waimea, once you pass that boil in the photo, your home free. That's why the guy looks chilled. Its the DROP that's super gnarly. once you make that, at this size, your good. If its 20ft plus, its a whole nother story. This day was 12 - 14 ft.
Sometimes I see surf like this in my dreams. Unfortunately, never having surfed it, even in my dreams I am unable to imagine myself on it. :(
perhaps one day.
He's only got one arm as well. Imagine if this guy had two arms! He is a guy. Isn't he? Chicks can't pull this type of shit off. Even if they have two arms.
When he first lost his arm he could be found in the shallows late in the evening just paddling round and round in circles just try to get out back. His mates affectionately nicknamed him "Polo" ...True story!
All content remains copyright of Metcentral Ltd unless stated otherwise, we'd kindly ask that you don't reproduce it in any form without our permission.
GMANN32 days ago
