Fun day playing close to shore.
Francois Bouwer Apr 1, 2010 Rating: -1
When I used to live inland I loved shoreys. I didn't surf back then (but I wanted to.) so all I could do is drop with my styrofoam bodyboard, but it was fun as heck. I was a maniac back then. 4ft shorey + hyperactive 6 year old = a whole lot of fun. Too bad my parents brainwashed me and every surfing day of my life I fight the fear they instilled in me.
CarpeWave Apr 1, 2010 Rating: 1
I love body boarding shoreys! Never have to worry about a crowd, and don't have to worry about reef. Just got to make sure not to get pile driven head first into the sand...
BritishQuadFish Mar 24, 2010 Rating: 1
reading your replies and i can see they're breaking on shore... to get this deep out (only a couple of feet out) you surely must have taken a beating or 2 unless you timed it perfectly...? lol! But a beating by this must be pretty worth shots like this to share with every unlucky folk like me who never gets to experience something so beautiful! +5
CarpeWave Mar 25, 2010 Rating: 2
I do enjoy rolling around in the shore-tumble!
Get Joggly Mar 14, 2010 Rating: 0
Worth fighting for !
Scott Mar 14, 2010 Rating: 0
mmm foamy goodness
CarpeWave Mar 21, 2010 Rating: -2
I love the foamy monsters! I'll get some more up for ya for sure.
Sneakybadger Mar 14, 2010 Rating: 0
Nice shot mate, looks beefy! What sort of size (face)? +5
CarpeWave Mar 16, 2010 Rating: -1
Don't get me wrong, not trying to make it sound like a walk in the park! lol. The good thing about slabs is, they're sucking up so hard that the current that you're swimming in is rocketing up the face and into the lip. So, if you're going to get whacked, just dive out to sea and down, put your belly on the sand, and let the current rip you right under the wave. I find it so cool how late you can actually escape under a huge wave. Good way to get your camera or fins blown off though. The other option is...if you can tell it is going to break in front of you, go towards shore and get hit by it After it expels most of it's energy in the initial explosion. Won't hurt quite as bad.
Pete Ash Mar 16, 2010 Rating: -3
how do you survive those kind of beatings ? i have just had the shit kicked out of me in a tiny 4ft shorey and now flat on my back in agony. May be i should have dived deep rather than going for the shot.
Sneakybadger Mar 15, 2010 Rating: -3
That seems like sound advice, I will give it a try next time I am in that situation. Blimey, 20 foot faces!!! Not for me i'm afraid, 8-10 max max max is my limit in those types of conditions (on a sponge or swimming). I would highly recommend Hossegor to anyone, great waves, great vibe and if you go slightly late season you can still get hot weather, waves and the odd empty but perfect peak. Biarritz can be fun as well but a bit more mellow and more of a city environment.
CarpeWave Mar 15, 2010 Rating: 2
That's pretty heavy, but I've been out there on some macking days up to 20 foot faces that were quite humbling. Clark goes out on days like that like it's nothing. He's a really cool guy. About every time I take photos I see him there. What I do when I exit, is let a big foamy roller just wash me all the way up the sand and I just lay there and try to get washed as far up the hill as possible. It rockets me all the way up the beach. When I feel myself starting to wash back to sea, stand up and turn sideways, and I hold my ground. And of course try not to get "Travelatered." lol I would love to go to France. That long strip of sand has been calling to me ever since I discovered this site. Love looking at pictures of Hossegor and the rest of that strip.
Sneakybadger Mar 15, 2010 Rating: -2
Yikes!! Thats pretty heavy then, I find with surf like this it's not always getting washed up the beach that is the problem. It's exiting the water up hill when the wash is retreating, like an extreme "Travelater". I have been trapped in trenches like that a few times in france, scares the crap out of me. Do you ever shoot with Clark Little, your stuff and his are fairly similar.. Both equally awesome!
CarpeWave Mar 15, 2010 Rating: 1
I think this was a day up to 6-8 foot faces? Maybe a little bigger. At Ke Iki's, it's so fun to get close to shore. Half the shots I got this day were barreling right onto dry sand. These slabs will wash you up the beach quite a ways!