I woke up this morning and could hear the ocean rumbling out front. First thing I saw was a dude rolling into a large set at Pipe…clean as a whistle…immaculate…he made it out after being wrapped in water (and lots of it). Today is gonna be a good day I was thinking.
After shooting a few frames with the long lens I swam out there…looking for the good angles. Before the first set arrived a storm blew over the mountain bringing onshores and rain. Within 5 minutes Pipe went from a hungry pack of 80 to 10. I missed my window.