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This photo was taken at around 05:30 in the morning. The period on this day was 16 seconds and it was almost windless. These were the most powerful waves I have ever taken on - one missed takeoff and my leash snapped straight away. This was actually my honeymoon but my new wife very understandingly got up at 04:45 on the last morning and came to the beach with me to avoid the crowds. This spot gets very crowded on a good day - even at 06:30/07:00 in the morning I was having to move along the shoulder to avoid treading on the locals toes.
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3923 days ago