First thing i saw from mi casa at: 7am / Far Bar / Playa Zicatela
ole doc Sep 5, 2011 Rating: 1
The wave speed is no match for my board speed as I scramble for the shoulder! (most of you would secretly agree in private)
ole doc Sep 8, 2011 Rating: 0
Oh yeah I remember that old tube thingy. I tried blowing through one once or I think I did. Maybe I didn't I'm not sure but I must not have been moving very fast. The cop said something about .40... I guess that's not very fast because he gave me a ride into town.
ghgfghfhty Sep 7, 2011 Rating: -1
Coelacanth Sep 6, 2011 Rating: 1
Hmmmmmm...It also can measure the impact of a wipeout?...I guess that could be useful info. for paramedics and emergency room folks.
Coelacanth Sep 6, 2011 Rating: -2
Scroll down to about the Dede Durbridge article for the rashie info...I was actually just trying to find out why Younss keeps calling me Coolie Kid...as I had no idea who or what the Coolie Kids were...We're gettin' old doc!...http://www.stabmag.com/elliot/twitter-or-tattle
Coelacanth Sep 6, 2011 Rating: 2
Ole doc...Did you know you can actually determine your forward speed across the face of a wave? I did NOT...until this morning. No, heh heh...no complicated formulas or fumbling with calculators required...whilst dodging the lip. You simply have to purchase one of these new-fangled rashguards(rashies)with an Ipod size GPS tracking device imbedded in the upper back. It will determine your relatively infinitesimally small change in global position over a certain small(?)time period and gives a speed readout...somewhere. This will certainly be a big hit in future pro contests. Who went the fastest?....Ooooooooh...There goes my brilliant old skool idea of a low tech pitot tube in the fin connected to a speedometer needle gauge imbedded in the deck of the board(Patent pending...so back off weeders!!!). Dammit.
bestwelshsurfer Sep 4, 2011 Rating: 0
how about this wave formula-shut the fuck up and go surf
yuityutyi Sep 4, 2011 Rating: -2
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BuzyG Sep 3, 2011 Rating: -4
Having taken the time to read most of the posts, my head now hurts. Think I'll go for a surf. Nice lampost BTW.
cyberfish Sep 2, 2011 Rating: 1
When i first looked at this I thought that there was some sick thrill seeker tied to a pole to the right of the 'aerial'
stevealfredson Sep 7, 2011 Rating: -1
That guy's a SUP rider about to duck dive
Joktan Sep 3, 2011 Rating: -3
You mean there isn't?
Balthazar Sep 2, 2011 Rating: -1
WAW Sep 2, 2011 Rating: -1
su casa, mi casa
xiangbid Sep 2, 2011 Rating: -4
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COBHC Sep 2, 2011 Rating: 0
God dammit we don't want to support your child labour sweatshops!!
Tom Mosley Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 0
MarkH Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 7
i don't think I'd be able to negotiate that drop and avoid that lamp post. tricky!
stephenjones102 Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -2
HUGE! Magic Seaweed is usually spot on with the surf reports, but they have Los Angeles and Orange counties (in So. California) at about 3 feet, when it's actually about 8 feet.
Jim MSW Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 10
i think the period is the key factor here.
Hosh Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -1
It's gonna be a lekker weekend :)
Felipe Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -1
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWW, IÂ´m feeling sick just watching this pic :-O
Moe Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -4
There is no way thats a 3.5sec waveperiod...13.5 maybe?
doublevizion Sep 6, 2011 Rating: -1
Coelacanth Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 0
Although he has made marked progress lately in his comments...if Francois shows up & says the wrong thing here...I will lose all the progress I have made...resolution wise...in the last 24 hours. I think you know what I'm sayin' heeya Bazza!
bazza Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 2
Coelacanth Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 4
Mr.villa Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -1
That is one frikken big wave...
funnerz Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 2
3.5ft @ 22 secs ? must have big feet!
Caswellsurfer Sep 7, 2011 Rating: 0
How about a completely new Surf Forecasting system. It goes. Get off your ass and go surfing, Go surfing if you are desperate and Stay at home and have a nice soapy shower. Sorted.
berko Sep 6, 2011 Rating: -1
why can't the forecast reflect that?
Coelacanth Sep 4, 2011 Rating: 0
OK Flo-ridas...I have dun the math...The 15 sec. long period swell from Katia first showed on the NE Bahamas buoy at 1200 am(midnight)EST. today(09/04/2011). That wave period means a wave speed of 45 knots. But the speed of the wave group/train is only half that...or 22.5 knots. The distance from the NE Bahamas buoy...to the near shore Ft. Pierce buoy is 465 nautical miles(...http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/gccalc.shtml...)...Divide distance(465)by speed(22.5)...about 20.7 hours. So it should start pumpin' here by 8:30 PM tonight...Who's gonna be out there with me?
gpbb Sep 3, 2011 Rating: -4
what did you say about a tidal bore?
the vanity project Sep 3, 2011 Rating: -1
According to a recent thread, sarcasm was first recorded in 1579. Plenty of time to get to grips with it Clownshoes
Coelacanth Sep 3, 2011 Rating: 1
Well now that you mention it Soutie...sometimes it is...knot.
Coelacanth Sep 3, 2011 Rating: 0
Well now that you mention it Soutie...sometimes it is...not.
soutie Sep 3, 2011 Rating: 0
thats what i was driving at but the sarcasm may not have been apparent
Tony Chaney Sep 3, 2011 Rating: 2
Thanks guys, I'll be sure to bring a calculator with me next time i go surfing.
Coelacanth Sep 2, 2011 Rating: -1
The only speed I REALLY care about when it starts pumping HERE next week...is the speed LIMIT to the beach...Which I will be exceeding by 14.9 mph!
Coelacanth Sep 2, 2011 Rating: 0
So Soutie...How fast was that 21 sec. Hawaiian wave, mentioned above, travelling over deep water?
Coelacanth Sep 2, 2011 Rating: -1
For those who want even MORE useful learnin' and interesting stuff about waves...(1)http://www.stormsurf.com/page2/tutorials/wavebasics.shtml...(2)http://www.seafriends.org.nz/oceano/waves.htm
soutie Sep 2, 2011 Rating: 4
thanks, next time its pumping i will be able to calculate the wave speed.
soutie Sep 2, 2011 Rating: 0
thanks, next time the waves are pumping i will be able to calculate the period.
a2mfk74 Sep 2, 2011 Rating: -2
sorry, that was such a cluster once it got posted. Here are the most basic formulas to cut to the chase and not have a dorky math argument (c=wave speed): c = g x t / (2 x pi) ........... c = t x 1.56 m/s= t x 5.62 km/hr = t x 3.0 knot.......Thus waves with a period of 10 seconds, travel at 56 km/hr with a wave length of about 156m, or 30 knots. DEEP WATER.
a2mfk74 Sep 2, 2011 Rating: -4
I'm not following all of your formulas though I agree with your concepts. You gave the formula for wavelength, not wave speed. I copied and pasted the below from an oceanography website so as to not make any errors. I use "*" for times sign rather than "x" because it is less confusing. For deep water, the relationship between speed and wavelength is given by the formula: l = g * t * t / (2 * pi) l = t * c for all kinds of waves, substitute in above equation: t * c = g * t * t / (2 * pi) c = g * t / (2 * pi) t = c * 2 * pi / g or t = c * 0.641 (s) where t= wave period (sec), f= wave frequency, l= wave length (m) and pi=3.1415... to calculate c and l from wave period t (in sec): c = t x 1.56 m/s= t x 5.62 km/hr = t x 3.0 knot l = 1.56 x t x t (metres)
a2mfk74 Sep 2, 2011 Rating: -2
t=period (seconds), "x"= times sign, though * or a dot is less confusing. More often other symbols are used than the traditional times sign since x is the most common algebraic variable, and thus using it could be very confusing.
Stinger296 Sep 2, 2011 Rating: -2
Oahu just got a 4 ft @ 21 sec swell and set waves had 12-15 ft faces.
Coelacanth Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -1
But...If we bring in a bunch of wave dynamics equations(ie. math) here...we can create a Vanity Free Zone.
Matt Wright Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 0
Fellas, I just got out physics class...i don't wanna go back today.
soutie Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -1
yes, and Bazza needs to educate himself and write in proper english, not this new txt language rubbish.
Coelacanth Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 2
Thank you Bazza...I stand corrected and appreciate the information. I will have to educate myself further on this subject to clear up my obvious misconceptions.
bazza Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 4
I believe you are confused Mr sillycanth. Deep water wave celerity (speed) is calculated by the equation (g (txt))/2 pi. As gravity and pi never change the only variable is t (Wave period). That said, deep water wave speed is a direct function of period/wavelength. Therefore two waves of equal wavelenghts can not travel at differing speeds. See Snells laws of refraction and Airy's modified wave theories for further light reading. Tide is a whole other kettle of fish.
Coelacanth Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 1
I rarely see the speed of the wave mentioned in the few wave dynamics explanations I've read. I would expect a faster long period wave to jack up more & higher than a slower wave with the same long period...when they go suddenly from deep water to shallow water...The tide is actually a wave too...But it is usually an extremely slow, long period wave of varying heights...except in certain cases where it gets funneled and becomes a tidal bore.
Ben Freeston Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 7
Without taking into account PEs refraction you should expect around 8-9ft faces on the average set wave from a swell of this size - putting the better set waves in the 9-14ft range with the odd face in excess of this. Longer period swells have a significantly different profile with a great deal more energy at less height, when they enter shallow water and slow down they change shape and can increase considerably in size.
bazza Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 1
Shallow water wave height is extremely dependent on Wavelength. Im not sure may surfers understand this. A 1 foot swell at 23 seconds would be overhead.
bazza Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 0
Shallow water wave height is very dependent on Wavelength. Im not sure may surfers understand this. A 1 foot swell at 23 seconds would be overhead.
Sunspot Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 2
typo, 22feet @ 3.5 secs
Lavo Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -1
please help guys been looking for it all morning for my camping trip to bundoran tomorrow. cheers David
Lavo Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 0
what was that song in one of the videos on here a bit back.. it went 'cause u dont know where uve been, something something start again
sniperpaddy Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -1
I'm feeling a bit jaded with Puerto Escondido photographs. I'm starting to wonder if there is an organised tourism program comissioning the best photographers to maximise exposure of this location?
soutie Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 7
and Ed, can you arrange it so the forecasts start off shitty and progressively improve, rather than the inverse which is the current situation.
soutie Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 1
not all, there have been a few retired circus ponies in the mix.
the vanity project Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -1
that and the fact that RPM is happy to shoot chicks with nice bums
Ed Magicseaweed Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 0
POTD's on right: Teahupoo, Australia, G-Land, Florida, New Jersey, Puerto... Reason Puerto gets a lot is that it's the best beachbreak in the world located in path of the the most productive storm system at the height of an extremely active year. Drop us some Irish shots.
the vanity project Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 17
its true, surfing is all about the aerials these days
Get Joggly Sep 6, 2011 Rating: 0
Tennis elbow is just a polite way of saying WANKERS CRAMP !
soutie Sep 5, 2011 Rating: 2
Tennis Balls ? ouch .. i once had Tennis Elbow and that was sore.
the vanity project Sep 4, 2011 Rating: -2
New balls please
nouettes Sep 4, 2011 Rating: 0
Great rally! What a contest! Two experts batting off, head-to-head!
soutie Sep 4, 2011 Rating: -1
the backhand splash followed by the droop. game set and match.
soutie Sep 4, 2011 Rating: 0
the backhand splash or the droop shot ?
the vanity project Sep 3, 2011 Rating: -3
Hahaha, Advantage Soutie, prefer a lazy lob though
soutie Sep 3, 2011 Rating: -1
no, but i bet you are master of the forehand smash.
the vanity project Sep 3, 2011 Rating: -1
Turns out the rules are very different over there, donâ€™t think I could serve the ball like that.
Get Joggly Sep 3, 2011 Rating: -1
PingPong eh ... So you were there to Bangballs
Get Joggly Sep 3, 2011 Rating: 0
PingPong eh ... So you were there to bangballs not Bangkok
a2mfk74 Sep 2, 2011 Rating: 1
I wouldn't make a surf-only trip to Thailand, but there is definitely surf. Especially during Monsoon. We got randomly lucky in Phuket once and it was head high +. Got to get up early before the wind starts howling, which is easier said than done in Phuket.
the vanity project Sep 2, 2011 Rating: -1
I was only there to watch the PingPong championships but after my last statement you might be forgiven for thinking I was just there to Bangkok.
Get Joggly Sep 2, 2011 Rating: 0
No surf in Thailand VP , Just there to pick up a cheap TV perhaps ?
the vanity project Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -3
not the first time Iâ€™ve picked up mixed signals Souts, did I tell you about the he/she I pulled in Thailand?
Coelacanth Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -3
Ha ha ha...
soutie Sep 1, 2011 Rating: 1
picture's gone a bit snowy there
the vanity project Sep 1, 2011 Rating: -4
+7!â€¦ thanks for the good RECEPTION weeders