Winter in North Cornwall....
jethro Dec 30, 2008 Rating: -2
The harder you throw the ball the further it will bounce (the bigger the low pressure).... This sounds like a positive aspect of getting caught inside, but so often the bloody bouncy ball doesn't bouncy over me, but rather lands straight on my head. Sound advice though, and I guess it just takes many years of practice to get it right!
Dicer Dec 29, 2008 Rating: 1
easy now portpipe! He's my uncle stewie and he got me into dick dragging, taught me everything I know about how to get a long shlong!
Portpipe Dec 24, 2008 Rating: -1
to think that a gay dick dragger discovered that there are aquatic forcefields for duckdiving and the hundreds of thousands of surf dorks never even knew about them til now. high fives all round for uncle stewie (what a lege)
Ironside Dec 24, 2008 Rating: 1
Used to surf this spot whenever it was on but not for years. Used to be alone generally. Good to keep the location quiet. Is it still quiet or does it get a crowd now?
spongefreak Dec 22, 2008 Rating: 57
Jeez, nice shot of a great spot, and an interesting debate to boot, thanks to dave for posting uncle Stewies article, explains a lot about how sometimes you escape a duckdive nearly untouched, not so stoked about the (most of the time) last comment, you won't catch me sat on my board in front of a barrelling beast.
All Dec 22, 2008 Rating: -3
Thanks Dave! That is information I can use! Thanks for posting.
Meunchkkleeerrr III Dec 22, 2008 Rating: -2
ps - yo wildy...Manorbs (Manorbier) is a LONG ride wiht a barrel section and is really mellow wave!! it ROCKS man, one of myfaves....
Meunchkkleeerrr III Dec 22, 2008 Rating: -4
dudes - rad post, rad pic! will try to find the pocket, but no doubt will also get pummelled in the search btu thats what its all about. Weirdly, the other day i ducked a wave i thoguth for sure would spankoss me, but i slid under, smaller wave worked me loads more -timing is a factor for sure!! :D
sqirl Dec 22, 2008 Rating: -3
Very long but a good read and very imformative. I have a good challenge for all of you photographers (with underwater cameras). Someone needs to try to get a picture of this low pressure in action. Good luck and I am glad i am not your health insurance provider!
Dave Patterson Dec 22, 2008 Rating: 6
This is Mike Stewart's article on pressure pockets in hollow surf. HOW TO SIT ON YOUR BOARD IN THE IMPACT ZONE! Low pressures Locating, and then using low pressures in the white water. They are formed by the way hollow waves break. This is how they work: As a hollow wave rushes towards the beach and the lip throws out, it has a lot of inertia, not only because it is hollow but the entire wave including the lip is moving inward. As the lip lands and impales the wave face it plows down and forward anything it comes in contact with; An occasional fish, a tourist, the unknowing bodyboarder and what's important for this article water. Inside the barrel, as the lip lands, a shockwave is created and directly behind the shockwave, closer to the lip, a trench is formed by the boring lip. On the outside of the tube, the lip plows the water forward and up. As it bounces up and over it creates a pocket of virtually unaffected water. A low pressure zone in the chaos of white-water. As you are paddling out and you watch a hollow wave break directly in front of you, you can watch the lip boring it's way through the surface and then exploding upward and outward towards you. The area in front of the landing lip is the low pressure zone. The size of the low pressure pocket is directly related to 1. Scale, or the size of the wave and 2. How hollow it is. The bigger the wave the bigger the explosion and the bigger the low pressure area. I can recall a bodysurfing session I had at maxed out pipe where one of the biggest hollowest waves I have ever encountered broke top to bottom about 15 meters in front of me. Like an ostrich I just stuck my head under and waited for the inevitable, not knowing if the low pressure theory applied to 15 foot closeouts. To my pleasant discovery the wave gouged out a deep column of ocean the size of an olympic swimming pool that was virtually undisturbed and I simply floated to the surface feeling guilty for my lack of punishment. Needless to say it was the biggest low pressure i have ever been in. The hollowness of the wave effects the trajectory of the exploding water and thus how far in front of where the lip lands the low pressure will occupy. The hollower the wave the more water and power the lip has, the further the lip pitches out, and the larger the low pressure. Hollowness also effects how well-defined the low pressure pocket is. Once in really cavernous shore-break surf, I watched a thick lip slam in front of me and I simply sat up on my board like I was waiting for a set. The lip exploded up and over my head creating a giant white water bubble, totally avoiding the impact and still seated on my board, I simply popped up like nothing happened. An easy way to understand how low pressures work is to visualize a bouncing ball. The harder you throw the ball the further it will bounce (the bigger the low pressure). Also the angle you throw the ball effects the area between bounces. Where the ball hits the ground is equivalent to the impact zones, where the ball bounces up are where the low pressure zones lie. And just as a ball bounces more than once so does the lip. It is possible to find, although not as easily, the secondary and third low pressures. Each low pressure becoming less defined and harder to find the further away from the initial impact it is. So now that you know they exist, with some practice, you to can sit on your board in the impact zone with the confidence of not getting annihilated (most of the time)
admiralferro Dec 22, 2008 Rating: 13
I really like the pic man, it is very well composed and I think you should be extremely proud, and for everyone else, please do not think all Americans are as idiotic as Binger, and dude, you just need to calm down
Ruarri Dec 21, 2008 Rating: 2
How much for a big print of this Clive, would look good above the fire?
Ruarri Dec 21, 2008 Rating: -1
This spot does have a channel so you normally have a fairly mellow paddle out unless you are Jonny Rad who uses his own more hazardous channel. At this size the channel could be closing out too though and I have seen guys try to paddle out and get washed up on the rocks. Being more enthusiastic than skillful I spend a fair am,ount of time on the inside and at this size no matter how good your duckdives are, you'll take 6 or 7 waves on the head before being washed up 100m from wher you started in the channel, bouncing over all the rocks along the way. Its an amazing shot Clive, seriously. Its great that you didn't have to put the copyright thing on it. And to whoever dissed whats his name for swearing and filth good on you, no need for that. I swear all the time but cussing and swearing on a site like this is for losers only!
truerick Dec 21, 2008 Rating: 17
beauty, unique photo. i like the heavy contrast, always shoot with a deep red filter w/ b and w, makes things look a little like this sometimes. thanks for the pics, respct for the bro who paddles into the belly of that beast. binger, if you aint got something nice... your messing up the flavor here, live a little easier alright.
blandy Dec 21, 2008 Rating: 4
Kids, kids, kids.....why don't you just stop moaning and get to the facts - its a good photo, its a sweet spot (ive surfed it and it rules), and that guy must have had some of the rides of his life! MSW is supposed to be a site for surfers to share their spots and experiences - if you want to start moaning about contrast, filters and all that crap why don't you go on a tech. photo forum, not a surfing site! Now, lets all hug!
neoprenejunkie Dec 21, 2008 Rating: 2
Binger,just go away.
All Dec 21, 2008 Rating: 1
Nice picture! Binger...go get a life! If you found it, you will feel a lot better. And there must be a device in your house, it's called a surfboard, I advice you to use it.....I prescribe at least 2 times a day for the coming week. ;-)
mantis Dec 21, 2008 Rating: -2
jniz Dec 20, 2008 Rating: -51
First time posting a comment for me, but i just had to say something to all this hate i see posted on this site.What is the deal? Chill out and go for a surf. And Binger,,,your just bummed because you live in Jersey.Ouch
Binger Photo Dec 20, 2008 Rating: -14
Fuck all you dumb British fucks. Its a good thing that you're empire fell to shit or there would be a hell of a lot more retarded people. If anyone feels the need to pose more fun, let me know... I'll be glad to argue it out with you.
Lambsy Dec 20, 2008 Rating: 17
Binger you really need to relax. No need to swear. Swearing only shows your lack of knowledge about the english language and so a general lack of intelligence. The whole bad attitude shows you are interested in surfing for the money it can make you and not the life it can give you. You only get one life, is being stressed about anything ever worth it?
Clive Symm Dec 20, 2008 Rating: -1
Thanks for the feedback Sqirl, glad you like my stuff. Believe me, your comment was taken as it was meant, no hard feelings....
Surf or die Dec 20, 2008 Rating: 16
who gives a shit.... cool photo...Thanks
Cold Water Surfer Dec 20, 2008 Rating: 2
Hey Tod Binger, I can't believe you're claiming your first message has the naughty little four letter word *ed out, take a look below and read what you actually wrote before you call anybody a retard and an a-hole. What I meant by my comments regarding your lovely images was simply that they're not all in focus and some of your horizons aren't straight (sorry maybe dodgy dosen't translate to American that well). I'm sure that if any decent photographer had taken them they would've been deleted or had some time spent sorting out the most basic of errors before being posted here. While I'm at it Clive has already said that he upped the contrast for effect so why slate the photo one minute and then say it's a good photo but the contrast is "a tad high" the next. Come on matey concentrate and maybe get one of your teachers to check your next reply before you send it.....
Binger Photo Dec 20, 2008 Rating: -9
Cold Water Surfer - You're retarded eh? Sorry I don't have a pristine background to shoot surfing with. If this was just looking into the ocean, it'd have a blurred horizon too... unless he's using a small lens, but why would you go shoot surfing with a 50mm lens? Oh yeah, f*ck f*ck f*ck f*ck but its ok cause I starred out the vowels, they don't understand what it means... give me a break asshole. Clive Symm - I didn't say it wasn't a good photo. I like the setup, I just feel the contrast is a tad high. The histogram isn't always the best choice for putting the contrast to. Just gotta go with what you feel. Oh, and if I do move my monitor so its a really awkward position and the LCD gets messed up, I can see the details inside the wave too.
neoprenejunkie Dec 20, 2008 Rating: -3
yeh...lets all pile on binger the minger!
sqirl Dec 20, 2008 Rating: 1
clive, I dont know much about the technicalities of photography but i can definitely say your pictures are great. great settings, great waves, etc. I apologise if my comment offended you (it was only intended for humor)as for Binger, well no comment.
Clive Symm Dec 20, 2008 Rating: 0
Whoa Cold Water Surfer, thanks for the support. Maybe Binger Photo should check his monitor settings/angle of view, I don't have blown highlights or too black blacks, I can even see the detail inside the wave, the histogram for this shot confirms this. I admit I have boosted the contrast but everybody bar one seems to like the effect.....
Cold Water Surfer Dec 20, 2008 Rating: 3
Firstly Clive, excellent photo, love the cold wintery feel and ruggedness of the place, brilliantly captured. Secondly, what the hell are you talking about Tod, wouldn't know a decent photo if it bit you on the butt, Binger Photo. Can't help wondering if you're feeling a little jealous of this guy's work. All of his shots are damn near technically perfect and unlike yours matey, there's not an of focus or dodgy horizon shot to be seen. Thirdly, DO NOT SWEAR OR CUSS ON THIS SITE THOUSANDS OF YOUNGSTERS AROUND THE WORLD CHECK THESE PAGES, IDIOT.....
chenson Dec 20, 2008 Rating: -2
i read today about how the grey sqirl (sp?) has run the red sqirl out of the uk. he has spoiled the environment with sub par rhetoric over and over again.
neoprenejunkie Dec 19, 2008 Rating: 0
pps,sorry st agnes!
neoprenejunkie Dec 19, 2008 Rating: -3
ps, nice pic! off to st agness for new year, cant wait!!
neoprenejunkie Dec 19, 2008 Rating: -3
chill with the blue on blue dudes.
Binger Photo Dec 19, 2008 Rating: -8
Are you fucking retarded? The whites are blown and the blacks are way too dark. Don't you have something better to do with your time then sit on MSW and write dumb fucking comments? Go get some pussy or something. Maybe they'll think its sexy.
sqirl Dec 19, 2008 Rating: -3
or was it the photographer? Whoa dude everything looks kind of...... contrasty.
Binger Photo Dec 19, 2008 Rating: -1
Contrast is too high...
Dicer Dec 19, 2008 Rating: 2
all good advice, the main thing is not to panic as this increases adrenaline and increases blood pressure causing shorter uncontrolled breathing. Stay calm and you'll get through it. Spend time studying how it breaks and get the channel sussed (if there is one!).
Wildy Dec 19, 2008 Rating: 0
That lot reminds me of a big day at Manor Bier Wales... Under the waves there are huge jagged rocks to get mashed on... I surfed it once like that... the sound of the exploding break was frightening - just after the silence of each cavenous build-up... Didn't get much in the way of a long ride though... just the drops... Now it's one of many beautiful memories out in the break when I should have been in work! Great picture...
westmonster Dec 18, 2008 Rating: 14
Yeah this looks like it is breaking close against that rock face. Therefore it probably doesn't get nearly as big just to the side, hence where this guy is paddling out. Then again, the break in the forefront seems to suggest that when its this big the waves can spread out. Best technique is to avoid, duck diving might not work even if you do it right.
BuzyG Dec 18, 2008 Rating: -7
No need to duck dive those little beauties, you just swim around them, like in the phot. If you do get caught inside at that spot you still can't duck dive, unless you want to split your brains on a rock. Best solution is to stay fit, practice lots of free diving and bottom running during the summer months and after a few years you will wonder what all the fuss is about, when you meet a proper wave.
wallyyyyy Dec 18, 2008 Rating: -1
Hang10fred - all yo could do i eskimo roll, turtle roll, what ever you like to call it, or you could try going into a press up position, and hoping and praying you make it through!
Portpipe Dec 18, 2008 Rating: 0
emotionally? you seemed to have pinpointed it to to just one part of your mentality......you may need to concentrate on the larger picture
sqirl Dec 18, 2008 Rating: 3
young! How old do you think i am? Just because I stopped growing emotionally at the age of twelve doesnt mean the rest of me stopped as well.
Portpipe Dec 18, 2008 Rating: -5
someday young sqirl. i read up on the mike stewart thing, and the site i was on reckons that its not just after the initial impact but whole time the whitewater is moving. it has a point too, you can sort of see the wash move up and down as it comes toward you. its says that when its on the up and 2-3m in front of you, you should start the motion. i never got to try it out today cos all the surf reports lied to me!!!!!
Stewy Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -3
moo. yer a friggin idiot.
MOO Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -2
mwoolwardx Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -1
Awesome shot Clive. That spot is so gnarly. MS's theory goes like this; a large wave's lip explodes hard into the water out in front of it, after the initial impact of the lip it 'bounces' off the water and leaves a brief moment of low(er) pressure - if you time it right, you can duckdive a much heavier wave then normal. I've tried it (on a BB and in a goatboat) and it works IF you time it right. Too early, and you take the full impact of the lip and too late and you get the second bounce of the shockwave. Difficult to explain, hope I did it right........
sqirl Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -53
I have already mastered the nuts!
sqirl Dec 17, 2008 Rating: 0
Oh yeah and portpipe; will you teach me to master the force I too want to be a legume jedi!
sqirl Dec 17, 2008 Rating: 2
There comes a time when a heavy wave has broken in front of you and it is impossible to duckdive (no matter who you are). A good friend and hawaiin surfer passed on a technique that has served me well in such situations. Just before the wave is about to toss you, stand up on your board and dive off of it straight down. This does two things; gets you under the turbulence and gets your board above the heavy stuff. The question is are you going to take advice from a guy who has a big nutted sqirl for a profile pic.
MOO Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -1
MOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO MOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO MOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO MOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO MOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO MOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
old mother hubbard Dec 17, 2008 Rating: 0
sorry.. my bad.. i wasn't very clear! once you're under the water after the first part of the duck dive, try and keep the board separate from your body, i.e. so you're not hugging the board (but hang on tight to the rails), then when you feel the nose starting to rise, relax and come up with it...
Stewy Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -5
errr? surely the theory is you go completely under the wave? not have the wave pass between you and the board? that doesnt make sense?
old mother hubbard Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -1
Firstly, Clive- loving the photo, i bet that guy was stoked once he made it out the back... Youngblood, I've not heard or read about MS's theory either but the best bit of generic advice to both duck diving with a sponge or a board i received is to imagine your trying to do a press-up on your board, pushing the nose down first until your arms are fully extended. Time this movement a few seconds before you get smashed by the white wash so you sufficiently break the surface water so the wave passes between you and the board (in theory!) but as they say, practice makes perfect...
hang10fred Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -2
anyone got any idea how to get a longboard,mal or magic carpet through something like that?!!....
burner Dec 17, 2008 Rating: 2
try going as deep as you can and giving a few big kicks once the nose is pointed up. i find wiggling the rails helps through super hollow waves, but if you get dragged go with it and enjoy, nothing like having a chuckle when you feel like you just beat the reaper!
Mac Al Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -2
i guess what your saying lads is that its a bit like boxing... there is no easy way to take a blow on the chin, but the more you take the more conditioned your face becomes to takin the hits! hence what happened to Amir Khan, he surfed too many small waves and when they stuck him in with a biggie, he got knocked out..no conditioning!
crunchycruiser352 Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -42
yeah you gotta hang to your stick for sure, but if your too tense you'll get swirled around! once you get your nose pointed up you just let it do its thing
the panda Dec 17, 2008 Rating: 0
mate .... hold on tight and just relax and let the board do the work when you wanna come up practice makes perfect
pete-dr0w Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -2
no one has really answered youngblood yet... i'm curious too, once the waves reach a certain height, i find them nearly impossible cleanly duckdive. i dont know how some guys do it!
Portpipe Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -2
never a truer word said breakers. its easy to get caught up in the moment young grasshopper but at the end of a session its best to have come away with a bit of craft than a boast of bravado. sqirlez; until you you can harness the power of the bean, one should never think to unleash the power of the force.
PSALM 77:19 Dec 17, 2008 Rating: -4
NICE pic guy looks tiny compared to the wave
sUkya Dec 16, 2008 Rating: 14
sick contrast! lovin' it!
breakers88 Dec 16, 2008 Rating: 9
youngblood, duck diving is an art that is best perfected in the school of hard knocks....wave and water knowledge is the most important thing in your arsenal when surfing at any spot, and the way every one of us learned is getting the hell knocked out of us and gasping for air..... GREAT PIC, black and white fits well!
Colin C Dec 16, 2008 Rating: -1
I think the Mike Stewart theory referred to below, is once pitching lip hits the flats it bounces back up, before coming back down a second time, and sometimes further times if super hollow. If you can position yourself within the sections where the lip bounces back over you, the impact is lessoned. As for this wave, its a cosy dry hair paddle-out.
greenbee Dec 16, 2008 Rating: -4
beans are great for underwater propulsion though.. only if you've got a specialized 'outlet' for the gas. mike stewbags theory is the shiznit too.. mikestewart.com
sdfjkljklsh Dec 16, 2008 Rating: 48
I don't think it matters what technique you use on a wave like that, its going to thrash you. My advice would be.. try like hell not to put yourself in a position where you would have to duck-dive a wave like that. Be real patient and maybe you can dodge those suckers. If not.. remember to take a real deep breath and hold on for the ride.
sqirl Dec 16, 2008 Rating: -7
Ha Ha Ha this is the best start for a picture in a while. Beans are bad for duckdiving the gas makes you more bouyant.
Portpipe Dec 16, 2008 Rating: 2
i know how you feel youngblood, i surf there too and it is a struggle getting out when its even 4ft. i want to hear this low pressure theory too. not sure if kiwi johns theory is amicable at all although i've heard that high pressure release theory works if you eat enough beans
Rich666rd Dec 16, 2008 Rating: 1
Great shot and fair play to the bodyboarder! Low pressure theory - please fill us in...
Kiwi John Dec 16, 2008 Rating: -6
Yes, allow me to explain this "low pressure" theory to you all... because your just about to get nailed you have unfortunately shit in your wetsuit making your state of mind "LOW" which in turn, has put yourself under "PRESSURE" to get out behind the line-up more quickly so no one on shore sees you douching yourself with a handfull of kelp. I thank you!
Kiwi John Dec 16, 2008 Rating: 1
Yes, allow me to explain this "low pressure" theory to you all... because your just about to get nailed you have unfortunately shit in your wetsuit making your state of mind "LOW" which in turn, has put yourself under "PRESSURE" to get out behind the line-up more quickly so no one on shore sees you dooching yourself with a handfull of kelp. I thank you!
FDM Dec 16, 2008 Rating: -3
Great shot Clive!
FDM Dec 16, 2008 Rating: -2
FBU which breaks did you surf in Durban? I am originally from Cape Town but I occasionally traveled down to Natal for warmer waters. Tell me more about this low pressure theory. Cheers mate
FBU Dec 16, 2008 Rating: 14
yes it is the hollower the wave sometimes the better. mike sterwart a proffesional body boarder came up with a low pressure theory and trust me it does work. only problem if you time it wrong you get smashed. if you want i could explain more it is quite cool though. coming from durban south africa you get good at duck diving or you just dont get out.
Mac Al Dec 16, 2008 Rating: -1
is it possible to duck and dive waves like this? i am just woundering because i was out in whiterock portrush on sat 13th Dec and it was pretty big but not as violent as this pic.. a big wave crashed in front of me (about 15-20m a head of me, not height!) i duck and dived as deep as i could, the under current of the wave just grabbed me and sucked me into a violent roll, the scariest moment i have had yet, it was cold and i ran out of oxygen quite quick so just about got to the suface in time... just to do it all over again about 4 more times, once the set finished i rode a smaller wave into shore.. didnt want to try that again, any advice from more experienced surfers about diving these bigger, sronger waves?
Reillser Dec 16, 2008 Rating: -2
Fair balls to him for just getting out there, did he catch any of those monsters?
ChloeH Dec 16, 2008 Rating: 56
i bet his arms are like jelly battling through that
Portpipe Dec 16, 2008 Rating: 53
moonfleet comes to mind