DirtyMomma Hendry's Profile
MSW just made the world a much bigger and harder to reach place. I'm sad that I will lose the chance to meet so many other surfers from "far away" lands.......RIP, MSW.....I am a 34 year old new born surfer. March 18th, 2011 was my first attempt. 5 months down and 50 years to go. I feel SO stoked sometime I can hardly stand myself! Yippie!
A lot of people surf for sport, but I'm not good enough to call it sport. To me it's more of a spiritual experience. Anything that involves one ass kicking after another interrupted by perfect moments of grace, feels more like a religious experience than a hobby or sport. But a 1000 wipe outs is worth it all in that spilt second when everything comes together; when somehow some way I did just the right thing at the right time and I find myself riding down the line...and though it's just for a moment, for that moment nothing else matters.