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jessecary's Profile
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I think the problem is how comfortable people get riding bigger and bigger waves. When you surf that much in big conditions, you lose the fear that gives you the adrenaline you're after unless you are in something bigger than before and before you know it, the thrill is gone unless you're on a wave that dangerous. I can totally relate but on a smaller scale. I grew up surfing in New Jersey, then I spent a couple years abroad. Australia, New Zealand, Fiji, Hawaii...and now I'm back living in Philadelphia. I have to drive over an hour just to get to the beach, and I'm so much more picky about when I go. I only want to go when it's "pumping" which I realize is relative over here...but the last time I went it was actually a slightly dangerous situation for me, mostly because I'm out of paddling shape to be honest, but it makes no difference based on the point I'm going to make. The water was about 38F, waves about 6-8 feet and I went alone. I was exhausted and had some trouble getting back in because of the current. I was lucky not to get washed into a rock jetty at one stage. When I made it back to shore I was stoked just to have made it out and back...and that's the problem. The situation gave me that sense of fear like when I surfed bigger waves in other places and the relief of getting out of it, like making a hairy drop, provided the stoke. This was a month ago when my wife was 8 months pregnant. Don't think I didn't have that on my mind once I got out of the water, but I still went... I still enjoy surfing smaller waves but for many surfers including myself it's not enough anymore...surfing is also about pushing your limits, seeing what you can do and feeling a sense of accomplishment. To stop going bigger for many of these big wave guys is to give up on ever feeling the stoke of a new personal achievement again. It must be really tough to be a career big wave surfer and family man. RIP Sion
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Tony Plant2139 days ago Unrated Rate Positive Rate Negative
hey big J, good to meet you matey, get busy,sling up some shots and keep in touch, love to C and stay lucky, Tony and the birds XXXXXX