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"I don't think I've ever felt 100% comfortable out at Pipe. I definitely feel more comfortable out there now than when I first started surfing in Hawaii.
"It's being comfortable in that environment when you're in the pack which is the most daunting thing. Now, after being here for so long, and with my strategic plan to marry an Hawaiian paying off, I have a few more acquaintances than I had when I first started coming here.
"It's been a bit more calming to have a few friends among the boys, it's so tight out there, everyone wants waves and everyone's jostling for waves. It does get pretty intimidating and that's been the main hurdle. When it's good, it's perfect, and if you can actually get a wave that's the hardest part out of the way!"
Text and audio by Luke Stedman
Images by Joli/WPS
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