Surf conditions at 6.15a.m. on Thursday 15th May 2014:
It’s as pleasant a day as we could hope for this morning, a peaceful and gentle morning with Muntjac wandering the lanes (it was only a while ago that I didn’t know what a muntjac was!), the fiery red fox at the beach and a strangely subdued air of birdsong.
And the surf is as beautiful as the weather.
A well spaced and strong looking swell is kicking into the bay, throwing the peak out at HTC. There are a few earlybirds already out there and grabbing some warping and bouncy ones, those hollow little sections reaching for the sand.
It’s a steady three feet with way bigger sets marching through, making for an almost double lineup out there. The choice of sitting inside and grabbing wave after wave, or taking the possible frustration of sitting way out and waiting for those axing set waves.
I’ve always slightly envied those who do that, I have never had the patience to sit way out there hoping for those bigger sets and whenever I do, they disappear.
Until I paddle back in!
But others enjoy that strategy, clocking up those long, long surf sessions. What about you?
Well, whatever your preference, there is some great surf rolling our way today, the breeze is light and offshore, the sky is bright enough, a bit hazy but still bright and the air is mild.
Got any days off reserved?
And on that subject, we are still looking for a couple of staff here, if you know anyone?
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