Surf conditions at 6.05 a.m. on Friday 15th August 2014:
Triple level clouds are smoothly and rapidly sliding across the horizon, the pinks and blues and oranges and greys and blacks a promise of all sorts to come.
It is another blustery and blowey early morning, the wind continuing to gust in from the north north west, chilly as it pulls and tugs.
And so the surf is a bit of a mess, probably bigger when you’re out there than it first appears but still not much bigger than a couple of feet or maybe, occasionally three.
So, another day of some fun in bouncy and sloppy conditions, a day for the Fish maybe or something small and floaty, something that can fly when it’s bogging but will keep in those steep sections when they jump up suddenly.
It should end up being bright enough later, probably warm and cheerful and sparkling by midmorning but that surf is likely to stay choppy all day long!
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