Near Shore Effects

Breaking Waves

Much of surf forecasting is figuring out what happens to swell as it enters shallow water near the coast. Of course the most dramatic effect is the one we're most interested in as surfers, the final breaking phase

Entering Shallow Water

This is where things get complicated. As waves enter shallow water they start to bend, focusing on shallower reefs or bending around headlands

Sea Temperatures and Coastal Upwelling

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