Core Files - Greg Long

XCEL'S Core Files featuring Greg Long, the Mr Darcy of big wave surfing on still heading-up the vanguard of paddle.

"It was just like that. Everything in my surfing life was just turned upside-down." Said Greg. "Contests didn't matter, my performance surfing was dismissed. I knew then, big waves, that's my love and passion."

The Xcel Core Files Series is a behind the scenes look at five surfers that have dedicated their lives to traveling and surfing the best waves in the world year round. From Jaws to Jersey and beyond Albee Layer, Greg Long, Mike Gleason, Jeremy Johnston, and Ryan Seelbach define commitment. These are their stories.

Ed Temperley

MSW editor. Instagram @edtemperley