Call it instinct.
It’s what drags flocks of migratory birds halfway across the globe and back again, every year. It’s what causes us to go on the wave of the day, or pull back on something half the size. Animal instinct is right in the core of the surfing experience, and in mind-boggling weeks such as the one many NSW surfers are currently having, that instinct is to head for home — to the best wave you ever surfed, to try to score it even better.
For instance: a friend of mine is driving 12 hours halfway across south-eastern Australia right now, 12 hours on the road, jet-ski on the trailer bar and guns on the roof, hoping to surf a fabled reef about 20 kilometres from his childhood hunting grounds. It’s that sort of event.
Spot Guide: Sydney
But if you live in Sydney — which is suddenly in the epicentre of surf we normally just watch on videos — then that means you’re on one side of the bridge or the other. Nobody really knows if one’s better than the other, though my goodness, Cronulla Point right now. All anyone knows is that for the first half of this amazing long weekend, out of that surfers’ homing instinct, most Sydneysiders took sides. Here’s a look at the North and the South of it all.