Finally, those westerlies have blown through, making way for a couple fun days of surf for the south west of the UK. There's a fresh south wind blowing today and through tomorrow, with a hint of east in it, so if you find a little bit of shelter, you could be in for a fun weekend.
“The North Atlantic is still in that autumn transition phase, where one or two tropical storms are still forming over the warm waters of the Caribbean, and, at the same time, the north-south pressure difference (driven by the temperature difference) over the North Atlantic is increasing,” says MSW forecaster Tony Butt.
“Over the last week or so, there has been a complex area of low pressure covering the north, and a band of high pressure across the south, with the odd extra-tropical system being sucked into the westerly flow between the two systems.
“The swell that is about to hit southwest UK and Ireland is being generated by an area of southwest winds that moved up from the Azores. The windfield was associated with a small extra-tropical system that developed west of the Azores earlier in the week, and then merged into the southern periphery of a broad, multi-centred area of low pressure covering the northern two-thirds of the North Atlantic.
“On Saturday, high pressure builds over France, southwest England and the Low Countries, keeping winds over southwest UK and Ireland from the southeast, which means clean conditions for northwest-facing spots. Expect good beachbreak surf with wave heights around four to six feet, and some decent small-to-medium surf at many of the reefs in Ireland.”