This one was always going to be a little bit spicy. Just when you think the southern hemisphere should be in its annual swell slumber, a juiced up XL pulse roars out of the south Pacific, making its way straight for everyone's favourite spectacle wave at Teahupoo.
Right now, the surfing lens is trained on both Chopes and Europe for different reasons. In the EU, Hurricane Sam is blasting to shore today - we're on it though and will bring you images and updates v.soon. But yesterday, and into today, Teahupoo is tapping its final Waltz before relinquishing the floor to the northern hemisphere.
And it kinda looks a lot like this session from a few weeks ago (HERE), no? It's no Code Red or Terror Session from earlier this year but it sure is heavy out there.
15-year-old Gilbert Teave was amongst the heroes out there yesterday, along with Lorenzo Avenati, Eimeo Czermak, Enrique Ariitu and many more.
Justine Dupont had a near run in with a bodyboarder after she was whipped into a wave. Neither Dupont or Kirahu Thibaud saw each other making for an almost crazy situation. “He brushed my arm,” says Justine of the incident. But nothing other than good vibes between the two, as they dusted themselves off and got back into it.
MSW's forecaster Tony Butt breaks it down: "The swell that hit Tahiti originated from a low pressure system that began to deepen off the edge of Antarctica south of New Zealand on September 30. As the system moved eastwards, the pressure gradient increased between its northwest flank and an intensifying band of high pressure over New Zealand.
"On Friday October 1, the large area of strong winds was already generating swell, with open-ocean wave heights of 30 feet or more. On October 2, as the centre of the main system was almost half way across the South Pacific, still hugging the ice shelf off Antarctica, a small peripheral wave developed southeast of New Zealand.
"This produced an additional area of storm-force southwest winds, which tracked north-eastwards for about 24 hours. The strong winds combined with the dynamic fetch directly below Tahiti, generated a massive boost of long-period swell, which began to arrive about two days later. Initial periods were over 20 secs, before the swell filled in through Tuesday 6th and continued all day Wednesday 7th, with offshore wave heights well over ten feet producing monster surf at Teahupoo."
Anyway, we'll be updating this piece as more comes in, so stay tuned for much, much more.